Thailand

Two weeks in Thailand: restaurants in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Sukhothai and Krabi Beach

I had a fantastic two-week vacation in Thailand in February, 2009, and although I am allergic or just detest fresh cilantro, I left without a cilantro scar. My first hotel wrote out a little card for me about my affliction and it was fun to watch the reaction of both restaurant servers and street vendors. In restaurants, this was taken very seriously and my card was invariably brought into the kitchen so as to inform the chef.

I want to mention street food. Delicious!! You get scared about the hygiene and so it is important to choose, but if you find a place that looks good, don't hesitate. I had a wonderful spicy soup, papaya salad and grilled octopus on three different visits. I recommend it.

Although Bangkok is not a pretty city for wandering the streets, it is full of great shopping, luxury hotels, nice boat rides and fantastic restaurants. I loved the Siam Center's several shopping centers and spent a long time roaming the aisles of the fantastic food store at Siam Paragon. You can find EVERYTHING there from every country in the world. I was particularly impressed with the huge variety of Italian olive oils and dried pasta, not to speak of the rice selection. This is a must-see destination for a foodie.

My friend, Sylvain recommended one of the best restaurants in Bangkok: Baan Khanitha. There are several branches and I had a wonderful moderately priced meal at the one at 69 South Sathorn Road. My hotel made the reservation and I asked for the person who had taken the details. He was my waiter, and he was charming and knowledgeable. The food was wonderful: Yam Woon Sen to start (a spicy glass noodle salad with shrimp, squid and minced pork) and for my main course, Chu Chi Khung Nang--deep fried river prawns in red curry and coconut milk. I love spicy food and so I was very happy there. The restaurant was filled with Thai people and it doesn't feel like a tourist trap.

My favorite thing about Thailand is that you can stay in luxury hotels for the price of a basic hotel in London. I was at one of the best: The Shangri-La in Bangkok. I had fantastic service, a large beautiful room with a king size bed, and access to the Chi Spa which is one of the best in the city. I took one of their "voyages", and enjoyed a 2 1/2-hour experience of massage, bath, rub, and cream application to die for. I can't wait to go back. While you are there, you can use their faux-cashmere robes which are so soft and soothing after your shower.

My next stop was Sukhothai, which is the ancient capital of Thailand and full of beautiful ruins. I was at another luxury hotel called the Sukhothai Heritage Resort. As there is absolutely nothing in Sukhothai, this is where I dined. The food was very good and during the two days I stayed there, I sampled both lunch and dinner. The Larb Gai is a spicy chicken salad. Gaeng Ka Ree Gai is a yellow curry again with chicken and red and white rice. That was a winner. I tasted the sweet sausages which I loved, and also tried the Kao Hor Bar Bua which is old fashioned Thai fried rice with lotus flower, shrimp and chili sauce. On the second day, I had the spicy soup: Tom Kha Gai--curry chicken with galangal in coconut milk; and Pad Ka Praow Gai Goong, a dish of stir-fried shrimp with chili and basil leaf. In general, I ate very well in Sukhothai.

Next stop: Chiang Mai, known for shopping and the night market. I stayed in a little basic hotel which was located on the same street as the night market. A friend of mine told me that the Japanese restaurants in Thailand are very good, so for my first dinner, I went to Fuji. I had a spectacular assortment of sashimi and was very happy. Another winner in Chiang Mai is the famous Huen Phen. This place serves traditional northern Thai food. You can choose at the counter and they will serve you your choices at the table. I showed my cilantro card to the waitress and she and I proceeded to choose four delicious dishes for me. Don't miss Khao Soy--a spicy dish of noodles with the meat of your choice--usually chicken leg. You can't go wrong at this restaurant, as it is dirt cheap. I could not wait to go back.

The next day for lunch, I went to a place that was recommended in the Rough Guide: Just Khao Soy. You order your personally tailored dish of khao soy. You can choose the level of spiciness along with your meat: chicken, pork, tofu. I daringly chose spicy
(to the surprise of the waiter) and as it was definitely spicy I thought I was going to lose my lips in the fire. If you like spicy food, I recommend "medium". Once again, the bill was very inexpensive.

That evening, I dined at the Thai restaurant of my hotel: The Royal Princess. The restaurant's offerings were excellent. It is just a shame that there were not more people there to liven up the atmosphere. I had the traditional spicy shrimp soup Tom Yang Goong. Don't leave Thailand without trying their most famous soup. I also had the Pad Thai which is another traditional dish and wonderful. It is served with cilantro, but they wisely left it off mine.

For my last night, I wandered the night market and discovered the Kilari Night Bazaar. As I had reservations at a fancy restaurant, I told myself that I would come back there on another trip as the food looked extremely appetizing. There are many lovely restaurant stands and communal tables in the center of the market. This is an upscale section of the generally lower-class night market.

As recommended by the Rough Guide, I went to Ratchmakan Restaurant at the hotel of the same name--the fanciest restaurant in the city. It was nice to be in an upscale environment, but I was not impressed and would have preferred a meal in the Night Market. I would not recommend this place.

My next stop was the Krabi Beach--West Railay Bay Resort. I dined there most of the time and had wonderful seafood salads and fresh grilled fish. Some nights, I ventured next door for similar fare. One evening, I was part of a group on a snorkelling trip and we shared a wonderful seafood-chicken curry while watching the sunset on the beach. That was truly a high point of the trip.

My last evenings were in Bangkok and I went to one of the most famous restaurants in the city: the Blue Elephant. There is a branch in Paris. I was sorely disappointed by my meal and would have preferred to go back to Baan Khanitha or to try another place. I have been disappointed with Blue Elephant in Paris as well.

The next morning, I went to the food market right near my hotel. It was very interesting but teeming with people and parts of it seemed quite dirty. I took fantastic photos but they don't reflect the level of cleanliness. Personally, I would not feel comfortable buying food there.

For my last luncheon, I went to what is supposed to be the fanciest best hotel in Bangkok: The Oriental. The energy of that hotel turned me off (in comparison to the soft elegant atmosphere of the Shangri-La). But lunch was superb. I had the spectacular buffet: an array of continental dishes, sushi bar, seafood salads, pasta, meat preparations, fruit, beautiful French desserts, etc. Such a beautiful spread with a fancy cocktail came to about $50! And the room is beautiful with a river view. As this is a popular destination, it is important to reserve a few days in advance. What a wonderful close to a terrific trip. On the whole, I enjoyed Thailand for all the beautiful sites I visited and wonderful restaurants. And the people are friendly and honest. It is a very easy country for tourists.I can't wait to go back.

Dining in London

Power dining in London, including some of the greats: Gordon Ramsay, River Cafe,etc.

I was lucky enough to respond to an offer for a cheap trip to London (not including the meals). London is a quick 2 1/2 hours away from Paris by train and now that the pound has been devalued, it is a reasonable place to go to relax for a few days. The food in the fine restaurants is stellar. They say English food is terrible, and I am sure that is true, but you can spend your time on French, Italian, Indian, and East-Asian cuisine and be very happy.

On arriving, I made it to my reservation at Gordon Ramsay. It was so difficult to obtain one and I was thrilled that I could share the experience with a college friend, Peggy Czyzak. This restaurant has the coveted Michelin three stars and I think it deserves it. The service is lovely and refined, yet friendly, and the food is superb and understated. Peggy and I both started with sauteed foie gras de canard with my favorite sweet breads. And we continued with a turbot served with a variety of wild mushrooms. Simply delectable. We ordered a great white Burgundy: Chassagne Montrachet of Jean Noel Gagnard 2006. When at Ramsay's no need to be frugal! For dessert we were very inventive and opted for the eggplant for two. This was sweet, creamy, and wonderful. Along with that came a lavish array chocolates and petits fours.

Among other things Peggy and I discussed at lunch was the next restaurant I should go to: Tom Aikens. His name sounds British but the restaurant in truly French with French waiters. I started with a superb lobster confit with rabbit filet roasted in a vanilla butter and served with pumpkin gnocchi. What a mouthful to say and even conceive of. It sounds strange but I loved it. My main course was pigeon with a foie gras mousse and pumpkin risotto. I guess this chef likes his pumpkin. I didn't bother to order dessert as Peggy warned me that the coffee and petits fours choices would be enough for me--including five different flavors of just-baked madeleines. There was enough chocolate among the petits fours and madeleines to keep me happy. Were there not so many other wonderful restaurants in London, I would return again and again to both Ramsay and Aiken.

I LOVE THE RIVER CAFE. But that is because I love trattoria food. I'll go back to that place. The menu has so many delicious offerings that I would not get bored if I went once a week for a year. And dining there doesn't break the bank. They do change the menu daily and there are wonderful pasta dishes, fish dishes and meat dishes. Desserts are excellent--especially the fruit torta, the panna cotta and the Chocolate Nemesis. On the evening I went, I had the roasted calamari to start with--a large salad with huge grilled squid bodies and heads, and pasta stuffed with rabbit and pancetta. The pasta was wonderful--everything was wonderful. I could not decide on a dessert until I promised myself that I could go back there within 6 months. So I chose the rich Chocolate Nemesis. That is a chocolate lover's heaven.

Everyone talks about the Ivy. In LA, the Ivy is the place to see and be seen and that is true of the one in London. I went there after theater and although I didn't have a reservation, I was treated very well and given a table at the bar. The food is nothing spectacular. One goes for the experience. Apparently Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes had been there the night before. In terms of the meal, I had a fresh Dungeness crab salad that was very good. After that I had the treacle tart à la Oliver Twist. I was told that treacle is only in season for a very short time and I felt lucky. It was quite sweet and served with clotted cream which cut the sweetness.

After this gastronomic weekend, I shudder to think of what the scale will say about those extra kilos I must have gained. I think I will join a health club, because I certainly can't give up eating!!

Restaurants in Paris

Some of my favorite, moderately-priced restaurants in Paris--off the beaten track

Last year, I followed the gastronomic advice of my dentist and went to L'Ordonnance on rue Halle in the 14th. What a find!! After 11 months, this restaurant is in the Guide Michelin, which is quite an honor. Classic French bistrot food, lovely service and absolutely delicious meals are served up here from Monday through Saturday. The veal chop is sensational; the wine list stellar, the prices are right, and the desserts are terrific. For me, who live at the Place de la Bastille, the hike to the 14th is well worth it. The bill for two with a terrific wine came to 100 euros.

I love the Comptoir du Relais at the Place de l'Odeon and so does everyone else. At lunch until about 6 pm, they serve brasserie/bistrot food and it is always crowded. I went at noon and had to wait until 1pm (you are permitted to go on a short excursion and they will remember that you were there at the right time). Meat is a big item but the thon juste saisi is fantastic. I love the desserts. Count on a hearty meal. You can have a lobster salad, a salmon croque monsieur or even tuna fish "my way". Beef cheeks, pigs feet and charcuterie are excellent. The chef is a celebrity as he was the first young chef to go off on his own and serve affordable French fine food. At night there is one menu for a five-course dinner but you must reserve many many months in advance as they reserve tables for the patrons of the hotel next door. Still, I often see that walk-ins luck out, as the restaurant staff never knows how many of the hotel residents with be at their tables. Prices range from high for the lobster dishes to much lower for salads and country meat specials.

Mon Vieil Ami on L'Ile St. Louis has always received excellent reviews, but I was not impressed. I went on an un-busy night and given one of the worst tables although I asked to be seated elsewhere. Too full, they said, but I sat in the restaurant with just two other tables filled. The restaurant revels in its treatment of vegetables and they receive top billing. I thought that the meal was mediocre and will not return. The chef who consults to the restaurant is the great Antoine Westermann of Strasbourg, who recently retired. Perhaps that was what I tasted in the lackluster preparations.

Last year, La Cave Gourmande in the 19th gained praises from the Guide Michelin. So I took the pilgrimage out there with two friends visiting from Massachusetts. Although I would say that the food was not bad, I don't think it was worth the trek. Mme et M Singer were less than cordial and this surprised me. However, my appetizer was terrific: a dish with stuffed seafood that was light and savory. And I also had the dorade with fresh seasonal greens. Desserts were classic (as I like them) and very good. I think I left with less than a good impression mostly due to the lack of welcome and warmth in the service.

I love the Clos des Gourmets on avenue Rapp in the 7th. This also received the same Bib Gourmand from the Guide Michelin as did La Cave Gourmande, but it definitely deserves its accolade. The set menu is quite reasonable in price but there are several choices that cost more than the basic menu. The roast chicken is fantastic and all the fish preparations are wonderful. I can't resist the turbot with girolles which comes with a supplement in price. Appetizers are especially inventive--like the cold white beans or the mussels in a cauliflower gelée, served in a glass like a mousse. This is a definite "must return" restaurant.

Another great place is Le Cameleon. It was a tired bistrot in the 6th arrondissement until Jean-Paul Arabian took it over. His specialty is renovating old restaurants and making them his own and he really succeeded here. He hired a wonderful chef and had the entire restaurant redesigned to reflect today's style--minimalist and colorful at the same time. The food is terrific and affordable. The atmosphere very fun. I had a lobster salad to start and ris de veau meunière as my main course. Perhaps they are not for the faint at heart, but I do like offal. They were perfectly prepared. My companion had a wonderful fish dish. This place is a bit more pricey--reflecting the neighborhood and the fact that it is very "in". However, I can't wait to go back. Everything on the menu appeals to me and all the people I have taken here leave happy and satisfied.

For my last entry in this post, I will talk about Cafe Breizh. This place is perhaps the best crêperie in France--for sure in Paris. Oddly enough, the chefs are all Japanese. That is not surprising as the Japanese are known for their talents in the kitchen. The restaurant (on rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais) is always crowded. There are special complex crêpes, wonderful oysters, and the basic offerings that you would find in any crêperie.All the cheese used is fermier, and all the products are absolutely fresh. The cider list is long with wonderful offerings. Add to that the wonderful welcome, and you have a terrific place for lunch or dinner.

Trip to Florence Jan 2009

A delicious trip to Florence including an upscale trattoria in the hills, a fantastic trattoria in town, a visit to the food market, and a long lunch with a food critic who knows her way around ordering

I had a delicious trip to Florence at the start of the new year. Stayed in a wonderful pensione: Hotel Casci--at rock-bottom prices in a lovely room. The hotel had a very friendly hotel atmosphere and a copious breakfast and is a block from the Duomo. This was my fourth or fifth trip to Florence and I had to inaugurate it with a cappuccino scuro (dark) at Rivoire. I love that place and have so many wonderful memories of just sitting there admiring the people in the Piazza Signoria. I was shocked to see that the David statue had disappeared. Although it is just a copy, it was in restoration.

The first night, I went to a recommended wonderful trattoria called Zibibbo.It is run by Sra Picchi who is the ex-wife of the chef of Cibreo (a wonderful restaurant in the center of Florence). I will speak of Cibreo later. This was a lovely restaurant in the hills and I had a truly memorable meal: Maltagliati al ragu di anatra (square stamp-shaped pasta with a duck sauce), Piccione arrosto ripieno con scorze di arancia e pere (delicious crispy roasted pigeon stuffed with pigeon liver, pears and orange rind) and a wonderful rich chocolate cake which was really a chocolate mousse in a crust. It was a wonderful meal and with wine came to 66 euros. You could never do better in Paris.

The next day, after a coffee at Rivoire and a visit to the Uffici, I found an unassuming caffe-bar and had a delicious seafood salad for 10 euros. I was saving myself for dinner.

The Michelin removed its star from Rossini but that was after I had reserved. I went anyway. It is a beautiful restaurant with high ceilings, well-spaced tables and excellent service. The food was fine but pricey and I was turned off by my St. Pierre with rasperries. The fish was delicious but somehow I don't associate fish with raspberries. To start I had skewers of scampi served on a bed of pappa al pomodoro--which is basically a tomato-bread soup indigenous to Tuscany. This was a very good and interesting dish.

The highlight of the trip was the day I spent with my friend, Maureen Fant. Apparently, we met when we both attended the same daycamp in 1958! But we remet on a web site: the Italian Forum organized through Compuserve. Maureen was a regular overseer of the site. After she recognized my name, we had to meet. Since then have met up several times and do enjoy spending time together. She is an author and a food critic. Our rendez-vous was at a tripe stand in the San Lorenzo market and we did a little exploring, admiring and photographing the meat on the ground floor and the fruits and vegetables on the first floor. Outside this enclosed space is the other market where you can buy leather goods, pottery, scarves and shawls, trinkets.

After wandering around the food market for awhile, we walked to Cibreo (which I mentioned earlier), the restaurant we both consider to be the best in Florence. There is no menu but a large choice of appetizers, main dishes and desserts that are recited to you by the diningroom manager. Before anything, we were treated to a variety of antipasti including a delicious bruschetta di pate de fegato, prosciutto, a variety of vegetables preserved in vinegar and served with olive oil, and their signature sformato of potato and ricotta. I chose two half portions to start with: ribollita (another delicious Tuscan bread and vegetable soup--this time served at room temp) and pasatelli al ragu which is a specialty of Emilia Romagna. It consists of little noodles made from a paste of eggs, bread crumbs and parmigiano that are passed through an instrument. Traditionally these are served in broth, but I opted for the ragu and pretended I was eating a small portion of pasta. Maureen had the sformato of potato and ricotta with the same delicious ragu, and then a wonderful zuppa di zucca (pumpkin soup) with crumbledamoretti--delicate and delicious. All the home-made breads were spectacular--especially one very long baguette with knobs at both ends that is almost as long as the diameter of the table.

For my main course, I chose seppie in inzimino--a very spicy stew of calamari--absolutely wonderful. Maureen opted for salsiccio con fagioli, cavolo nero, e salvia (one of my favorite herbs) which was also terrific. The wine that was recommended was spectacular and reasonably priced: a Tuscan wine called Podere Sapaio Volpolo 2006. During the meal, various and sundry staff and family members came to talk to us to make sure we were doing fine.

Before dessert, the chef came out to see us. He is a striking man with a mustache and beard who is extremely expansive. His new wife lives in Paris so he and I had a few things to talk about. At some point, he came back to our table with two lovely jars of fig jam and two gallon-sized cans of peeled tomatoes!! His son, looking on, said that he had seen his father give many gifts but never cans of tomatoes. I would not dream of transporting such a large item on the plane (especially since the liquid would never pass through security) so I gave my can to Maureen. She lugged it back at great pains but assured me that she will make use of it, being accustomed to preparing large meals for big audiences.

I couldn't decide between two desserts so of course, I chose one, and they gave me both! I had the delicious budino al cioccolato with a coffee sauce and also the bavarese al salsa cioccolato. I wanted the panna cotta con salsa cioccolato but theirs come plain and I am sure there is a good reason for that. Maureen had a heavenly budino di yogurt with candied grapefruit and honey.

We ended the afternoon with coffee. With our discount, we paid 75 euros apiece for this spectacular meal. I would have been happy to pay more and that is what it would normally cost--probably 180 euros for the two of us.

Cibreo has opened a trattoria which has many of the same dishes on a menu, a cafe, and also a theater where members are served dinner buffet-style before or after watching a show.

Of course, I could not think of eating again--perhaps for 24 hours, and so I went back to my hotel and watched a dvd which the hotel provided free of charge. As Maureen mentioned, the less expensive and friendlier the place, the more free perks there are.

I had to get my pizza fix even though my favorite places in NY, Washington, D.C. and Naples are probably better than anything I could get in Florence. However, at lunch the next day I went to Il Pizzaiuolo right near Cibreo for a sausage pizza. I would say it was fair by my standards. The crust was chewy but not at all crisp and it was a bit too oily.

However, dinner was a winner. Maureen recommended a traditional Tuscan trattoria. Da Ruggero is a fun place with laughing happy customers in two well-lit rooms ordering and eating all the signature Tuscan dishes. I started with a dish of baby asparagus that had been cured in vinegar and served in a garlic oil, and then had ribollita again. This one was full of vegetables and white beans and was served hot. It was memorable. After that, I had a big juicy steak served hot and rare with a lemon wedge. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the thing to order here but one person could not eat that, so the filet I chose was an excellent second choice. It was delicious and so much to eat--I left half of it for the restaurant's dog. I had a blueberry crostata for dessert. With wine, my dinner came to 45 euros and was well worth it. I wanted to go back the next day! By the way this place only serves meats as main courses but a vegetarian could happily survive on the delicious soups and contorni and perhaps a picci dish (thick spaghetti which I imagine is a Tuscan specialty).

It was difficult to find a restaurant open for Sunday lunch so close to the end of the holidays, but I found Baccarossa. It is a lovely space and wooden desks with drawers for tables. The glassware is quite attractive. The week after New Year's is particularly dead in Florence and I was the only client, but that didn't detract from the friendly service and delicious food. Breads are home-made and excellent--especially one with pignoli. I ordered fresh fish that seemed to have just sprung from the sea. It was steamed in cartoccio (paper) along with baby black olives, capers and cherry tomatoes. I started with a lovely gnocchi dish also served with a light fish sauce. Dessert was made to order (I could hear the sound of the mixer from the kitchen) and was a big fave: chocolate soufflé. The restaurant serves a choice of 60 wines by the glass and I had an Italian Sauvignon Blanc called Valbuins Livon. I would go back to this place, but probably at dinner when it would be more likely to be full.

That said, every restaurant I went to that week was pretty empty. Florence seems to close up the days between Jan 2-14.

Grom is the new ice cream place to go and that is all I need to say. Everyone is talking about it and the ice cream is spectacular.

I was sorry to leave Florence and already know which restaurant I want to try when I return: La Giostra. When I got home, I received a Zagat Guide of the best restaurants in Europe and this restaurant along with a Michelin 3-star get top marks. So I am sure it is worth the detour.

Destination Wedding in Mexico: November 2008

A week in Puerto Vallerta including some great restaurants

My friends Joel and Rusty hosted a four day bash to fete their nuptials. 82 guests converged on the charming town of I, Mexico on the west coast of the country. I was fortunate to stay in a lovely reasonably priced hotel (Hotel Playa Conchas Chinas) that boasted a delicious Mexican restaurant: La Playita. Black bean soup, seafood salad, and chiles rellenos stuffed with whole pieces of lobster were delicious dishes that I consumed with glee. I must order everything WITHOUT cilantro and that posed no problem to the kitchen.

At the luxury Villas next door (Quinta Maria Cortez and Casa Tres Vidas)--we were welcomed by our hosts for breakfast each morning. In addition to the refried beans and rice and huevos rancheros was served the most delicious bacon I have ever tasted. People also raved about the sausage.

We were invited to La Palapa which is a restaurant on the city beach that has a complex of condos that can be rented for several days or weeks. We all sat at tables beach side--under umbrellas--as we were served by friendly waiters. I had the most delicious coconut jumbo shrimp in a papaya-mango sauce (from the restaurant), skewers of fresh shrimp and plates of lobster that I could buy from vendors on the beach (see photos). The restaurant also serves three different types of ceviche and I had one with passion fruit and jicama. If you want to go shopping, you don't have to move as the vendors wend their way through the people sunning and swimming on the beach. You can buy jewelry, candy, cakes, blankets, hammocks, etc. etc. It is a very colorful scene and so it is easy to spend the day watching the movement of the ocean, eating and drinking, shopping, and enjoying the atmosphere.

One night, Joel and Rusty hosted a dinner at La Piazzetta--one of their favorite Italian restaurants in the Romantic section of town. We were served a variety of delicious pastas, pizzas and antipasto. The signature drink is tequila in the form of the margherita, but I enjoyed several very good tequilas on the rocks during my week-long stay in Mexico. On another evening, 12 of us went out to Cafe Olla--also in the old Romantic section--and were delighted by the copious platters of grilled seafood and fish. That is a very popular place and one must reserve in advance. On another evening, I went to Polo's Mariscos which is an excellent seafood restaurant. The shrimp cocktail is the greatest!!. You get 12 large succulent shrimp in a light tomato juice-type sauce topped with fresh perfect slices of avocado. The dish is served in an old fashioned drugstore ice cream sundae glass. This is almost considered peasant food and can be had at any small restaurant, as the shrimp is so plentiful in that part of the world.

The wedding was a beautiful event on the beach with a truly lovely service. After the ceremony, mariachis serenaded us as we enjoyed various hors d'oeuvres (including those excellent coconut shrimp as well as mushrooms stuffed with cheese). At the Villas we had a formal sit down dinner with a choice of grilled beef or red snapper Vera Cruz style (onions, and tomatoes). Instead of the usual rice and beans, this elegant meal was served with fresh vegetables, a salad and potatoes. The wedding cake was a delicious white cake with fresh strawberries. It was difficult to remember that this was November, as the weather was hot and perfect and the food very summery.

We had two other delicious meals at the Villas--Mexican specialties (chicken chilaquiles, salsa, skewers of chicken or pollo) on one night and a delicious Mexican barbecue consisting of chicken in a spicy sauce as well as fantastic ribs. I had my share of corn and of flour tortillas too and so it was not a surprise when I returned home weighing four pounds more than when I left!! Even though there is so much fish, the food is quite starchy and it is easy to put on the pounds.

I stayed in Puerto Vallerta for a few days after the wedding as did other guests. So of course, I explored the local restaurants. I went to Polo's Mariscos on a rain evening and had great shellfish. One of the most simple things you can get is a shrimp cocktail and this one was served as a big ice-cream parlor parfait glass chock full with large succulent shrimps in a spicy red cocktail sauce. The Combo for one was unbelievable: two skewers of grilled shrimp with assorted vegetables; two of scallops with mushrooms and grilled lobster on a side plate. With this came lovely garlic bread. Being Mexico, the bill was very affordable.

Before I left, 11 from the wedding party and I went to the very popular Cafe Olla where the Seafood Combination for three consisted of baked potatoes, grilled whole lobsters, jumbo shrimps, mahi-mahi, red snapper, swordfish, rice and vegetables: truly a feast! The fish and shellfish were all very fresh and perfectly cooked.

For my last night, I dined at El Corono on Playa dellas Animas. It is a separate restaurant at the foot of my hotel. There, I had a huge burrito rolled with cheese and chicken, refried beans, rice and vegetables. Very filling but very good.

You would not be surprised to learn that after this trip with all the filling food, I came back to Paris ready to go on a diet. No more croissants for me for several months! That is the price one pays for the gourmet lifestyle.

Weekend in Nancy

Nancy: a charming city in Alsace and its best restaurants

I had a spectacular weekend in Nancy the weekend of Assomption when everyone is travelling--not to Nancy, however. The smartest move was to stay at the Grand Hotel de la Reine which is on the beautiful Place Stanislas. This is a stunning square that is quiet and clean because no cars are allowed. The buildings surrounding the square are all the same style and at every corner are beautiful baroque gates with iron gates, gold leaf decoration and ornate statues. Beyond the square is a lovely park, another beautiful square, an arch of triumph and streets to the main sections of town. The city is known for its art nouveau architecture and its works of art nouveau in the various museums. In addition there are some very good restaurants.

I had a huge meal at the one star restaurant, Le Grenier à Sel.I chose the menu dégustation and here are some of the delicious items I was served. Tomato-Grenouille Rillettes, a cone of a Bavarois d'avocat with fresh crab meat, a transparent large ravioli with oysters, ham and cucumber. The next course was a medley of foie gras with superb Cavaillon melon, a gingerbread tuile served with a wonderful sweet Côteaux de Layon that married so well with the richness of the foie gras and the sweetness of the melon. There were spring rolls of green asparagus, and of roast langoustine garnished with baby vegetables on a cucumber jelly. To refresh my palate, a delicious sorbet flavored with olive oil was served. I had had enough at this point, but the meal had only just begun. The pièce de résistance was a delectable filet mignon coated with a tiny bit of wasabi and served with kale layered with ham alongside a mountain of fresh chanterelles. This was a truly wonderful dish.

For my pre-dessert, I had an Irish Coffee--revisited. This consisted of a lady finger, coffee mousse, a touch of chocolate, and whipped cream. Just wonderful!! And frankly, sufficient. However, the real dessert was raspberry profiteroles with a lovely thin layer of chocolate coating the plate to flavor the profiteroles. I had tea which is a very effective digestive and this was served with mignardises. Although the dinner was exquisite from start to finish, it was hard to eat that much. One feels like one needs to train for such a long gastronomic experience and I felt out of practice!!

My favorite meal was much less elaborated and at the small V-Four. This tiny restaurant has the coveted I--a Michelin rating which means a restaurant that serves an excellent meal at a great price. I always seek out the Bib Gourmands and suggest that you do too. Thusfar, I have been pleased with the results. V-Four rose to the occasion. My I was a lovely green asparagus cappuccino--which just means a foamy and delicious warm green asparagus drink. I started with a carpaccio de Coquilles St Jacques served with thin slices of parmesan and salad. This was simply delicious with the cheese adding a surprising note of flavor. My main course was dorade on a thin polenta tart served with an herb oil and balsamic vinegar. This was a very unusual and interesting savory dish. I chose a local wine to go with it (Côtes de Toul, Domaine Regina 2007) and that was a very good.

The desserts looked terrific but after the meal of the night before, I decided to go with the Soupe de Fruits Rouges infused with Szechuan Pepper. This delectable concoction was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal. With a choice of excellent coffees, the meal came to just under 60 euros and was worth every cent.

Paris Update: A long time coming

Some fancy and not so fancy finds in Paris; a few hideaways that the French particularly like

It has been months since I have updated my Paris restaurant list and I have many restaurants to write about. A wonderful find that I went to twice in the same month is the new L'Ordonnance. This restaurant is in the 14th arrondissement (the middle of nowhere for me). The name means "prescription" and my dentist recommended it to me rather than writing me a real one. The food is inexpensive, classic, and simply delicious. The beef is wonderful, desserts are out of sight the wine list very sophisticated, and everything on the menu is worth ordering. This is a little unknown place so don't tell too many people about it! Eric and I went there after my visit to the dentist and loved it so much that we agreed to go back there to celebrate my birthday. On that evening, I had an assortment of fresh natural tomatoes of every color and size that was spectacular. (See the photo of the beautiful tomatoes.) The main course was capon with fresh chanterelles and a wonderful baba au rhum.

For the day of my birthday, Mary treated me and I treated her to a wonderful meal at the two star restaurant La Table de Joel Robuchon. It is open every day of the week and at lunch there is a lovely 55-euro menu which includes wine. You can't do better than that especially at such a temple of fine dining. However, we were most intrigued by the list of tapas and decided to order à la carte. We had a fresh artichoke with langoustines and a type of guacamole garnished with fresh baby squid; craw fish in a clear bouillon with tiny fresh pea ravioli, quail with foie gras and the famous compulsory buttery and creamy mashed potatoes that is the specialty of M. Robuchon. Dessert was a soufflé of passion fruit. This was a spectacular luncheon. Mary treated us to wonderful Burgundy white and red wines by the glass. It was a remarkable dining adventure.

My friend Noriko comes to Paris twice a year (from New York). She is a private cook and once or twice each trip, she likes to treat herself to a fine meal with me. This time, I chose Restaurant Auguste (chef Gaël Orieux) which has one Michelin star. The dinner is not cheap--we paid about 100 euros apiece and only ordered wine by the glass. The style is Breton: fresh fish, oysters, carré d'agneau. For dessert, we had a wonderful chocolate soufflé which is my favorite dessert. If you remember, my mother made me that for my tenth birthday party. Although expensive; I would go back to this place in a heartbeat.

Not so for Spring which Noriko chose. This small restaurant has had lot of hype and it is booked up months in advance but after my experience there, I don't know why. The restaurant has 22 seats and one menu--no choices. On the evening that we went, it was extremely hot and there was no ventilation. Sitting through that dinner was just torture. It went on and on interminably and the food was mediocre so even when served, one did not feel a sense of relief. I have been to small restaurants where one can choose what one is going to eat and is served much more quickly and adeptly than at this place. I could not wait to get out of there. The entire meal was rather tasteless except that the chef used his salt much too liberally. The wait staff was also very unfriendly. The 42 euro price tag was much too expensive for a place of such low calibre. No one wants to spend a cent on food that they do not enjoy.

Another new place that is also very popular is Les Itinéraires. It used to be Le Temps Au Temps and was situated in the 11th arrondissement. They did so well as to be able to move to a more popular and larger location. However, I thought that the service and food were mediocre. The ceviche de saumon with a purée of beet was interesting but as I don't like the combination of salmon with beets, I didn't enjoy it. I ordered beef cheeks half-heartedly for main course, and was almost finished when I saw that they had failed to tell us the evening's specials--both dishes I would have greatly preferred. Such a gaffe on the part of the server is inexcusable. The desserts were terrible. Again, the meal was too expensive for what it was which was a whole lot of nothing.

My brother David was in town for a few days and he took me to two great places. I had already been to the first one and chose it with enthusiasm: Le Cameléon. I love this place. It used to be a boring bistrot that was taken over by a master restaurateur: Jean Pierre Arabian. He has done a spectacular job of renovating the place and choosing a great chef. The food is wonderful and every item on the menu is tempting. David started with a very rich foie gras and I with a tuna sashimi salad. Our main course was a delicious cold salmon dish with tarragon, ginger on a refreshing bed of glistening diced cucumber. It was lovely. Desserts were fine: a chocolate mousse with a cocoa sorbet and a light lemon cream with fresh tangerines and oranges. We had glasses of champagne and a bottle of wonderful wine that was recommended by M. Arabian. The meal came to less than 100 euros per person. Lunch is less expensive and just as wonderful with many of the same dishes as part of a 35-euro menu.

The second evening we went to a more upscale place called Citrus Etoile off the Champs Elysées. I remember the chef, Gilles Epié, from his wonderful restaurant, Miravile, many many years ago. Since then, he spent time in the states, married an American and moved back to Paris to open this relatively new restaurant. The service was absolutely charming and friendly. I had an interesting warm lobster salad to start with. The lobster was piled with angel-hair strands of fried onions. David had a beautiful octopus salad with white beans from Paimpol, green tea infusion and celeri rave. It was light and tasty. My main course was an excellent meunière of sweetbreads. This is a very original rendering of that wonderful dish as sweetbreads are usually served poached and then en brochette. David had a savory dish of lotte on a fresh tomato sauce. For dessert I had a superb Grand Marnier soufflé and David chose a beautiful almond tarte with large succulent red cherries. This meal came to just over 200 euros.

Our final meal together was at a restaurant from the past. About 40 years ago, our father had a year's sabbatical in Paris. I was in college at the time, but came to visit in the summer. David and our two other brothers spent the year here. Every Sunday they went to the neighborhood pizzeria: Da Pietro. It is still going strong. For the most part, I think that Paris pizza is horrible. However, this place does an excellent job and when I crave a pizza, I come here. The personnel are very friendly and all the food is delicious. Pizzas run between 11-13 euros and it is hard not to finish the whole thing. The French love Italian food and as a result, this place is always full.

To end this post, I must recommend Le Clos des Gourmets--recommended to me by two different people I trust. Here is an example of a tiny restaurant with friendly service and a variety of delicious dishes. I went there with my friend, Gaby, and we both had a terrific time. She started with a cold white bean soup with pieces of smoked duck breast while I had a glass of cold mussels, cauliflower and a foamy emulsion that was lightly spicy. Both dishes were superb. My main course was a wonderful turbot with mashed potatoes flavored with pesto. I can't wait to make that myself. It was also served with a copious portion of fresh chanterelles--some of my very favorite foods all in the same dish. I loved the combination of textures and flavors. Gaby had an absolutely wonderful roast chicken that had a very powerful meaty sauce. This was a simple, yet spectacular dish. For dessert, I had sauteed mirabelles with verbena ice cream and Gaby chose a tart of black figs. This was a spectacular meal. The menu is 35 euros but many of the dishes have an additional charge. Gaby's meal was 35 whereas mine with the turbot was a bit more expensive. However, it was well worth the cost. I can't wait to go back to this place.