Restaurants in Paris

Some of my favorite, moderately-priced restaurants in Paris--off the beaten track

Last year, I followed the gastronomic advice of my dentist and went to L'Ordonnance on rue Halle in the 14th. What a find!! After 11 months, this restaurant is in the Guide Michelin, which is quite an honor. Classic French bistrot food, lovely service and absolutely delicious meals are served up here from Monday through Saturday. The veal chop is sensational; the wine list stellar, the prices are right, and the desserts are terrific. For me, who live at the Place de la Bastille, the hike to the 14th is well worth it. The bill for two with a terrific wine came to 100 euros.

I love the Comptoir du Relais at the Place de l'Odeon and so does everyone else. At lunch until about 6 pm, they serve brasserie/bistrot food and it is always crowded. I went at noon and had to wait until 1pm (you are permitted to go on a short excursion and they will remember that you were there at the right time). Meat is a big item but the thon juste saisi is fantastic. I love the desserts. Count on a hearty meal. You can have a lobster salad, a salmon croque monsieur or even tuna fish "my way". Beef cheeks, pigs feet and charcuterie are excellent. The chef is a celebrity as he was the first young chef to go off on his own and serve affordable French fine food. At night there is one menu for a five-course dinner but you must reserve many many months in advance as they reserve tables for the patrons of the hotel next door. Still, I often see that walk-ins luck out, as the restaurant staff never knows how many of the hotel residents with be at their tables. Prices range from high for the lobster dishes to much lower for salads and country meat specials.

Mon Vieil Ami on L'Ile St. Louis has always received excellent reviews, but I was not impressed. I went on an un-busy night and given one of the worst tables although I asked to be seated elsewhere. Too full, they said, but I sat in the restaurant with just two other tables filled. The restaurant revels in its treatment of vegetables and they receive top billing. I thought that the meal was mediocre and will not return. The chef who consults to the restaurant is the great Antoine Westermann of Strasbourg, who recently retired. Perhaps that was what I tasted in the lackluster preparations.

Last year, La Cave Gourmande in the 19th gained praises from the Guide Michelin. So I took the pilgrimage out there with two friends visiting from Massachusetts. Although I would say that the food was not bad, I don't think it was worth the trek. Mme et M Singer were less than cordial and this surprised me. However, my appetizer was terrific: a dish with stuffed seafood that was light and savory. And I also had the dorade with fresh seasonal greens. Desserts were classic (as I like them) and very good. I think I left with less than a good impression mostly due to the lack of welcome and warmth in the service.

I love the Clos des Gourmets on avenue Rapp in the 7th. This also received the same Bib Gourmand from the Guide Michelin as did La Cave Gourmande, but it definitely deserves its accolade. The set menu is quite reasonable in price but there are several choices that cost more than the basic menu. The roast chicken is fantastic and all the fish preparations are wonderful. I can't resist the turbot with girolles which comes with a supplement in price. Appetizers are especially inventive--like the cold white beans or the mussels in a cauliflower gelée, served in a glass like a mousse. This is a definite "must return" restaurant.

Another great place is Le Cameleon. It was a tired bistrot in the 6th arrondissement until Jean-Paul Arabian took it over. His specialty is renovating old restaurants and making them his own and he really succeeded here. He hired a wonderful chef and had the entire restaurant redesigned to reflect today's style--minimalist and colorful at the same time. The food is terrific and affordable. The atmosphere very fun. I had a lobster salad to start and ris de veau meunière as my main course. Perhaps they are not for the faint at heart, but I do like offal. They were perfectly prepared. My companion had a wonderful fish dish. This place is a bit more pricey--reflecting the neighborhood and the fact that it is very "in". However, I can't wait to go back. Everything on the menu appeals to me and all the people I have taken here leave happy and satisfied.

For my last entry in this post, I will talk about Cafe Breizh. This place is perhaps the best crêperie in France--for sure in Paris. Oddly enough, the chefs are all Japanese. That is not surprising as the Japanese are known for their talents in the kitchen. The restaurant (on rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais) is always crowded. There are special complex crêpes, wonderful oysters, and the basic offerings that you would find in any crêperie.All the cheese used is fermier, and all the products are absolutely fresh. The cider list is long with wonderful offerings. Add to that the wonderful welcome, and you have a terrific place for lunch or dinner.