A Hidden Jewel in Bohemian Paris: Caffe dei Cioppi

A tiny hole in the wall where they serve spectacular Italian food






Just four months after Federica Mancioppi and Fabrizio Ferrara opened their tiny Italian lunch restaurant, it received the coveted Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide. Fast forward two years and the restaurant is always filled at lunch and is going to start serving dinner as well.

I was thrilled to get one of the 17 seats in this tiny place with an open kitchen and a relaxed atmosphere. That day, Federica was at the stove and paused to talk to me and, yes, to have me taste some of her wonderful creations.

This is an authentic Italian trattoria with creative takes on old faithfuls, like the wonderful sausage and zucchini-filled lasagna. The artichoke risotto was spectacular: perfect consistency to the rice that had been stirred in an extremely flavorful broth.

The menu changes daily and there are several appetizers including interesting bruschetta, soups, salad plates; several main courses such as risotto, a few pasta dishes, and meat or fish offerings. The day I was there, Federica was serving a delectable Penne à la Norma with slowly cooked eggplant and tomatoes and garnished with ricotta salata--which is ricotta in its hard form. I had the perfect seat at the counter, and was able to see each dish as it passed from the open kitchen to the server's hands. The thick piece of tuna served on a beautiful bed of spring vegetables was greatly appreciated by the two men who sat at the counter with me.

There is a nice Italian wine list with whites and reds coming from all over Italy. You can also order wine by the glass.

I couldn't decide among the four wonderful desserts: a gorgeous strawberry tart, panna cotta with pistachio and blueberries, a bitter chocolate fondant that I know I would have loved, and the house specialty: Sbrisolana with a marscapone cream. I went for the house dessert and was transported to seventh heaven. The Sbrisolana is a large pie-shaped cookie made of almonds, sugar, flour and corn meal and after it comes out of the oven, it is broken into pieces. The "cookies" are crunchy, rustic and not too sweet. Served with the luscious marscapone cream, this makes for a wonderful end to the meal.

Come spring, they set up tables throughout the Passage de Saint-Bernard (where the restaurant sits--just off the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine) so it is easier to get a reservation. I was told that in the evening, Maurizio is the chef.