Bar Le Passage: Alain Senderens

Gourmet Dining from a starred chef for a real bargain price


In the 48 years I have been visiting and then living in Paris, I am sure I have dined at Alain Senderens' restaurant at least 40 times. I am now friends with the director, M, Loic and on good terms with the chef, his wife and many on staff. I used to come at 11 am when the crew was setting up, and would have coffee with them while they had their lunch.

Perhaps ten years ago, M. Senderens decided that he wanted to make his restaurant more accessible to everyone and so turned in his 3 Michelin stars. The restaurant went through a total renovation in design and on the menu so that a meal there is now about 125 euros apiece, whereas it was in the 400 euros per person range. He also opened a bar upstairs where tapas was served until the early hours of the morning. Now that space, called Bar Le Passage serves a real lunch and dinner. Lunch is 36 euros and dinner is 39. So for very little money you can taste from an historic and many- starred French master of cuisine. The restaurant received 2 stars the first year they worked in the new way and have kept these stars since then.

I had never been to Bar Le Passage except for a drink several years ago when it was still a bar. I went to today with a friend and we had a delicious, copious lunch for the 36 euros. On the menu was a lovely crème de courgette for the amuse-bouche; an escabèche of lieu on a bed of potatoes; delicious caramelized, braised veal with vegetables and green asparagus; and a wonderful grilled pineapple served with walnut ice cream. There was so much to eat that I could not finish everything. At night, it is chef's choice after they have discerned your particular likes and dislikes and there is one more main course in addition to what is served at lunch.

Here are pictures of the amuse-bouche and the veal. I was so interested in the conversation and in eating the food, that I forgot to take my usual picture at each course.

My friend and I both thoroughly enjoyed the lunch as the service is very attentive, yet discrete and dignified. True to fashion, there are à la carte items as well as a short and well-selected wine list. M. Senderens is particularly interested in the pairings of wine and food and the staff is ready to counsel you should you wish to indulge.