Of course, I was unable to get into Noma,the best restaurant in the world according to the "San Pellegrino Best Restaurant in the World" list. I am sure it is good, but not worth the three months of persistent calling on the day reservations open (you must call three months in advance on the first Monday of the month 10-14 European time)--a thankless job!. I did go to Relae, brain child of a chef from Noma and found the food extremely strange and mostly mushy.
Here are some of the unidentifiable dishes:
These are two different dishes, served in a menu of four dishes including corn ice cream for dessert (there are no choices). In terms of texture, they are identical. The first is a cauliflower dish and the second a potato dish. They should have used broccoli for the cauliflower to embellish the dull palate of the menu. Or better, yet, change the dishes entirely.
And then there is the Kong Hans Kaelder (King Hans' Cellar), a charming beautiful restaurant in a cellar with an open kitchen of which I had full view. It was quite good but achingly classical and extremely expensive. As I was in Copenhagen to find the more modern cutting-edge addresses, it was a disappointment.
My favorite place, recommended by Mr. Bittman, was Schoenemann. It is the best of the smorrebrod places. Smorrebrod are open-faced sandwiches and are best served with the spirit, Aquavit, of which Schoenemann has quite a collection.
I was under the impression that the sandwiches were bite-sized, so I told my waitress that I only wanted four. She replied that I would never finish the meal and recommended a herring dish
and the sandwich of my choice (baby shrimp with dill and mayonnaise)
and, of course, a glass of Aquavit.
Schoenemann is a very popular place (well-deserved), with reasonable prices and wonderful service. Reservations are a must.
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