Yumiko and I decided to try Le Pantruche one summer night. We were not disappointed. It is an inexpensive menu for delicious food and is not easily found by tourists.
We chose different dishes on the menu. First was crab in a shellfish bouillon with fresh almonds.
Yumiko had a carpaccio of black mullet (a white fish) with a light cream of salmon eggs and fennel.
Next came more fish dishes: Minute de bar, petits pois bouillon de coquillages (quickly seared bass with fresh peas and a shellfish bouillon).
And a Pavé de Lieu jaune au lard fumé, courgettes, seiche et encre (a more complex dish of a flavorful fish with smoked bacon, zucchini, squid and its ink).
Both were excellent. The fish tasted as if it had just jumped out of the sea. Everything was fresh and flavorful with carefully chosen ingredients.
After these rather light beginnings, we decided to splurge on the Soufflé Grand Marnier, caramel au beurre salé (Grand Marnier Soufflé garnished with the French favorite: fresh caramel from salted butter sauce).
This is a place to watch.
My friends, Rusty and Joel, rented an apartment in Paris for the month of October. They are both excellent cooks but rather than stay home every night, they went to restaurants at lunch and dinner, armed with their Guide Michelin. I joined them several times (served as an adviser as I know many places). Here is a sampling of what we discovered.
Le Villaret
This place is in my neighborhood. The food is very good but I think they use too much cream. The night we went, they had a Squid dish in Cream with Breton white beans and Chanterelles. The squid had been simmered in milk and melted in your mouth. I have never had such tender squid. But the dish was rich.
Steven (Joel's cousin) came along with us and that enabled us to try many of the dishes.
Two of the main courses were Scallops with Breton white beans, tomatoes and chorizo sausage and this was spectacular.
We also had Roast partridge with potatoes and roasted garlic that you could spread on the excellent country bread.
Joel and Rusty shared a Pot au Feu de Cochon which is a very French classic dish of boiled pork with potatoes and vegetables.
We followed up with desserts: Fraise-Basilic Façon Melba (Strawberries Melba with Basil Ice Cream) and Mousse au Fromage Blanc et Rhubarbe Compotée, sable Breton (Fresh white cheese with a compote of rhubarb and a Breton butter cookie).
Au Passage
Also in my neighborhood and a popular place. There is a line after 10 pm but we went at 8:30 (early by French standards). Au Passage has been open for a couple of years and is always hopping. At dinner they serve everything in tapas portions so we just chose whatever sounded good. A fine dinner.
We had my favorite huîtres speciales Roumegas(very meaty oysters from a small town in Brittany) no. 4 (indicating a small size), Belons no. 3, Huîtres Kys no. 2 (the largest of our choices); Terrine Maison (always a must in a place like this--the house terrine of pork and other meats); Burrata (high end mozzarella di bufala) with zatar (a Moroccan spice) and honey.
We continued with Raie with capers and tartar sauce; a very interesting cauliflower with treacle (Christmas sweet sauce from the UK),
and Pintade au Chou (guinea hen with cabbage). Everything was well prepared and delicious if casually served. They didn't allow us clean plates until we demanded them after being served the fish.
Here's a collage of the highlights
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The original owner of this restaurant named it after the model number of his Peugot. I had been there many years ago, when he was still working. That evening, his son was the manager. He took good care of me, especially when I told him about my aversion (allergie) to cilantro (coriandre). The bad news for me is that every dish is prepared with it except a few appetizers. I decided that the sauces would mask the flavor of the cilantro and I would be happy. Luckily, for the things I chose, I was right.
The restaurant is very atmospheric and especially dark so there are not photos of this meal. It was delicious though, if you like cous cous dishes and tagines. We did and had a sampling of many. I was thrilled with my fresh yogurt and cucumber salad appetizer. Others chose a lentil soup with cilantro and shrimp in crunchy filo. The main courses were superb tajines and I loved my chicket tagine with pears and fresh almonds. Other choices were lamb with artichokes and peas as well as one with raisins, prunes and fresh almonds. We didn't spend much money for a wonderful meal in a very friendly environment.
Le Baratin
This place, in the Belleville area, is always a welcome surprise. The lone female chef is an Argentine woman who has mastered the art of complex, flavorful French cooking. I have written about it before but the lunch we enjoyed there deserves a replay.
That first day we went with Steven and so tried most of the dishes on the menu.
The 3-course meal is 19 euros which is the first bit of good news. The proof is in the menu. Starting with the house terrine,
we moved on to a delicious garbanzo bean soup with cumin
and a salad of judiones (large fava beans) with herbs.
Main courses were saucisson (thin sausage) with a smooth velvety mashed potatoes;
div>a fricassée of chicken with spices and vegetables,
and a slab of swordfish with mussels and cilantro. I actually ordered the latter but it was so aromatic with the cilantro that I was about to return it when Rusty happily offered to trade with me. I was very pleased with my chicken.
We had eaten enough but dessert was on the way. We had wonderful soft pudding of apples and almonds, pots de crème a la vanille (rich vanilla custard), and a portion of the cheese St. Nectaire
This was a wonderful end to a delicious meal.
I am looking forward to Rusty and Joel's next visit!
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