More Paris tidbits

An authentic Breton crêperie run by Japanese chefs, Italy's best gelateria, a chic brunch at the Hyatt with friends


I went to Breizh Cafe today. The chefs are Japanese and the direction is Breton. It is an authentic Breton crêperie and you will find nothing better anywhere else. I love galettes and crepes and have been all over Brittany for great ones but this is the best. It is at rue Vieille du Temple and rue du Perche in the third arrondissement. Always crowded, it is a good idea to reserve. I had a Breton artichoke galette today with gruyère, ham and delicious fresh artichokes. There is a list of excellent cidres and I chose the 1/2 carafe of house cider--enough for two or three. I always start with their fresh oysters from Cancale and never have room for the numerous dessert crepes. One day I will skip the oysters.... The restaurant serves non-stop from lunch to the early evening.

Grom is an Italian gelateria that originated in Italy. I discovered it in Florence only to find that one opened not only on the rue de Seine, Paris but also on 7th Avenue South near Bleeker in NYC. The ingredients are all natural; the ice cream is smooth and creamy and this is definitely a keeper! It is authentic Italian gelato made from all natural ingredients as opposed to the fake style Italian gelato that Amorino serves.

My friend, Eric and I had a wonderful meal at L'Accolade on the rue Guillaume Tell in the 17th arrondissement of Paris. It is a bit off the beaten track but well worth the trip. Everything is well prepared and presented beautifully. Eric had a delicious fresh grilled swordfish on smashed potatoes and I had de-shelled langoustines on a cheesy risotto. We both started with a lovely refreshing tuna tartare in which the tuna was presented as pieces and not shopped fine. My apple-pear crumble (hazelnuts instead of crumble) with salty caramel ice cream and caramel was superb and the home-made profiteroles au chocolat were addictive. My dentist recommended this place. I can always count on him for a good restaurant report.

Last month, I had a fancy brunch at the Hyatt Vendome with my friends Sophie and Loic. It was a very pleasant and delicious experience. For 75 euros, you are treated to champagne, a vast buffet and one main course and coffee or tea. I had the delicious omelette aux morilles. At the buffet were all sorts of fancy dishes including a superb crème brulée au foie gras, saumon fumé, seafood salad, cheeses, and a wonderful baby club sandwich. For main courses (I had the omelette) there was pain perdu with honey and ham, exotic Spanish ham, and tartare de boeuf among other things. The buffet had a variety of beautiful desserts including fondant au chocolat, tartelettes aux framboises, crème caramel, the classic opera, etc. etc. And we chose a rosé Champagne Billecart Saumon to anoint the meal. It is a lovely event that can be experienced on Saturdays and Sundays.

Strasbourg

A visit to Strasbourg (a gourmet's delight) where I went to two pillars of gastronomy for fine cuisine and a number of local small eateries for traditional Alsatian food.

Strasbourg is known as a gastronomic capital. I spent four food-filled days there and was not disappointed. For kugelhopf (the breakfast pastry with almonds and raisins that comes in various sizes), I ran to Christian which has two locations--both in the old city and one in the Place de la Cathédrale. Get there before 11 am, otherwise they will have run out. They also serve a lovely lunch there and you can have Alsatian specialties. I went for a delicious chocolate extravaganza and was not disappointed.

That day, for lunch (and before the chocolate gateau) I had the compulsory flammekeuchen which is a thin crusted pizza covered with lardons, oignons; crème fraîche--what a delight.

For my first dinner, I went to the Buereheisel which is a lovely restaurant in the Parc de L'Orangerie. Years ago, the chef was Antoine Westermann and the restaurant had three Michelin stars. Père Antoine retired and his son took over the kitchen. Now the restaurant has one star and, nevertheless, is really wonderful. I chose the menu gastronomique and was very impressed.

For starters, I had roast lobster with curry and white asparagus, followed by frogs legs with spaetzle, sole with green asparagus, lemon and fresh tomato, sweetbreads with morels (a truly luxurious dish), roast lamb with baby vegetables and rosemary, and a beer-caramelised brioche cake with roast pear. This menu was spectacular!!!! and reasonable at 145 euros with wine. To have all these luxury foods at that price quite wonderful. Had this been the three-star restaurant, the same menu would have cost twice this much and have been equally delicious. I left feeling happily sated and blown away by the perfect performance of the chef as well as the excellent service.

The next day, I had the pleasure of dining at Au Crocodile (which has two Michelin stars). Everyday, there is a bargain menu of 87 euros for six courses, wine, water and coffee. You really can't find that anywhere as most menus include food only. This day, I had several amuse-bouches including a spectacular gougère with spinach, and a tiny flammekeuchen and a cappuccino de choucroute (the regional sine qua non). My courses were white asparagus (an Alsatian seasonal specialty) with blinis and caviar followed by the river fish, sandre with morels and creamy polenta, and culminating with a series of pre-desserts which introduced a strawberry soupe with Gewurtztraminer (a regional wine) with a pepper ice cream which was a perfect light ending to a lovely meal. I had a number of Alsatian wines with this wonderful menu and at the end, several mignardises (pistachio cake, basil cotton candy, raspberry tart, passion fruit tart with red fruits). With coffee came two lovely chocolates (with cumin and with coffee). A truly memorable experience.

I went to a very picturesque and interesting town the next day: Colmar, and had lunch at a Bib Gourmand which is a Michelin restaurant that serves good food at reasonable prices. It is always wise to seek out the "bibs" in any city. At Les Trois Poissons, I sat outside along the Ill river and had a delicious sandre choucroute au beurre blanc. This was a simple, light and memorable meal. The sandre skin was crisp and tasty and the meat of the fish was prepared perfectly. With this, I had a glass of Riesling and was happily sated.

When in Strasbourg, one should not miss the Winstubs. They are the casual wine bars where people go for terrific regional food. I chose Le Clou which has the coveted
Bib Gourmand. No pomp--but a warm welcome and delicious food. I ordered a portion of warm white asparagus (spring asparagus are a stable of Alsatian cuisine) with a vinaigrette dressing, and Brotwurst sur choucroute. The choucroute garni looked fabulous but was too copious for me. For dessert, I had Mirabelle sorbet with mirabelle alcool. This was my favorite meal: hardy, no-frills, and delicious food served in a friendly and boisterous atmosphere.

If you can believe it, I had one last lunch to write about: at La Maison des Templiers. This is a temple to Alsatian food in the charming part of Strasbourg known as La Petite France. At a lovely table on the terrace along the river, I had coq au riesling--pieces of succulent chicken in a redolent cream sauce. This dish is only found in the most traditional Alsatian restaurants and I chose this place precisely for this dish.

I left Strasbourg with plans to diet and with the wonderful memory of all the terrific dishes I had sampled. It was a wonderful stay in a beautiful and delicious town.

Salons de Thé including Chocolatiers

I am a dessert person and here are the best places to go for sweets in Paris.

I am going to start with Ladurée which is the top of the top in delicious salons de thé in Paris. Above all, the pastries are sensational. See the photos. I adore their viennoiseries. The croissants à l'ancienne are the best and I also love the bostocks (like a brioche toast that has been bathed in rum and almond flavor and is completely and absolutely superb. The bretzel is a delicious pate feuillettée with almonds and raisins in a pretzel form. The brioches are quite sensational. Next in line are all the delicious cakes and tartes. Whatever you choose, you will experience the best in quality. Of course, they are famous for their macarons and most people will be on line to choose a box full of a varied assortment. I am not a macaron fan but I know they are very good. There are four Ladurée destinations in Paris: in the department store, Printemps, the flagship store at the Place de la Concorde (terrible service), the shop in St. Germain des Près on rue Jacob (best service and beautiful decor) and on the Champs Elysées. The Champs Elysées branch is a proper restaurant which serves dinner whereas the other places close at about 7.

For chocolate pastries, rush over to Jean Paul Hevin. In my studied opinion these are probably the best in the world for creamy dark and delicious chocolate concoctions. Marquise, Choco-Passion, Chocolat-Framboise, Caracas, etc. etc. All are delicious and made of the best quality chocolates. Jean Paul Hevin has three shops--on rue Vavin in the 6th, a branch at La Motte Piquet-Grenelle, and a shop with a salon de thé near the Place Vendôme on rue St. Honoré. I am a regular as I can never get enough of the absolutely superb chocolate gateaux. I even love their macarons as they are all chocolate flavored with coffee, passion, lemon, etc. They are addictive!

In the 6th, near the Jardin du Luxembourg, you will find the superb maison of Christian Constant (rue d'Assas). Here, I like the little chocolates and the hot chocolate (the best in Paris) and the tablettes de chocolat. I prefer Hevin's cakes to those of Christian Constant but you will certainly find a few gems in his collection. I especially like the tarte au chocolat, le chocolat moka (with hints of coffee) and the feuilles d'automne. He has some wonderful non-chocolate items such as his pear tarte and the wonderful kalinka--a Russian cheesecake. As for the tablettes au chocolat, no shop makes such refined chocolate bars as that of Constant and it is difficult for me to choose which one I like the best.

When you think of chocolate, you think of La Maison du Chocolat but I don't. I have never been enamored of their cakes, candies or hot chocolates. It is a must-miss shop.

Japan in Paris

Of the many hundreds Japanese restaurants in Paris, only several hundred are authentic and run by Japanese people with Japanese chefs. Here are some of the best in all categories.

The French love Japan and so do I. For the past seven years, I have been studying Japanese and have a number of good Japanese friends with whom I converse. I also embellish my experience with my memberships in different Japanese clubs and with the Japanese Cultural Center in Paris.

There are a zillion Japanese restaurants in Paris but only about 120 of them are run by Japanese people and are therefore authentic. A good book to refer to is Itadakimasu (which means Bon Appetit) which lists and describes the authentic Japanese restaurants in Paris. Many of them are situated on the rue St. Anne between Opera and Palais Royale but there are a handful in every arrondissement. And I have been to many of them over the years.

My cantine is Edokko but that is because my friend, Kazumi-san, is the manager. The location is at Palais Royale at 164 rue St. Honoré. For the inexpensive price of 12 euros, you can get a plate of sushi or chirashi or sashimi, salad and soup. I would give the quality a B but what can you expect at this price? And the chefs are Japanese. Next door is Higuma which I LOVE. They have wonderful ramen of all sorts, and the Chinese food that the Japanese love like Chahan (Chinese fried rice with ham, peas, shrimp), tendon (fabulous dish of mixed tempura on rice with a sauce), toridon (teriyaki chicken on a bed of rice), yakiniku (grilled beef on a bed of rice) and yakisoba (noodles with pork and squid). This is the kind of place you will find all over Japan: cheap, hardy and delicious food at very low prices.

For sushi, I have a number of suggestions. Michi on the rue St Anne is terrific. It is a small place with a sushi bar on the ground floor and tables in the basement, and the sushi is excellent. My favorite place is Comme des Poissons in the 16th on rue de la Tour. There are only about 12 seats at the bar and that is close quarters. The sushi is spectacular. I had omakase there (chef's choice) and was in 7th heaven. The chef made me all sorts of concoctions with their special sauces so I didn't have to dip in the soy sauce or add wasabi. If you order the basic assortment, they will ask you if you want them to add wasabi to each sushi. (French people do not like this.)

La reine de la reine of sushi is Isame and everyone will attest to that. However, it is very expensive and the people are extremely unfriendly. Isame is located on the Ile St Louis. If you want a similar food experience (but with kind service) and don't mind travelling, Sushi Marche at metro Mirabeau is a fantastic alternative. For about 19 euros you can have an impressive array of sushi or sashimi. The staff is very friendly and warm. It is quite difficult to get to this place (20 rue Mirabeau) but it is worth the trip!

In the 14th on rue Pernety, you will find Kirakutei--another excellent sushi bar which serves other delicious dishes. The superior sushi is especially complete and delicious.

For tempura, I love Isse Tempura. It is on the rue de Richelieu not far from Palais Royale. Dinner is especially exciting with a number of menus featuring interesting Japanese dishes and an entire menu of a variety of tempura. Like in Japan, once the tempura is cooked, it is immediately served so you can revel in the crispness before it loses its crunch.

Shu is my favorite restaurant for tempura and kushiage--another form of lightly fried foods. The atmosphere is lovely. One is seated in a cellar with stone walls and wooden tables. Although expensive, the food is impeccably prepared and delicious. It brought to mind an exclusive sushi restaurant I discovered in Tokyo. The atmosphere is quite zen and the staff and chefs concentrate on their creations. It is only open for dinner.

For katei ryouri (home-cooked food), I recommend Nakamura and Chez Miki. Nakamura is in the 17th arrondissement on rue Troyon. It is run by a husband and wife team and there are just a few tables in the restaurant. You can choose from a lengthy menu including chawan mushi (a savory custard), a variety of salads and main dishes such as pork katsu or grilled mackerel. Reservations are a must as the restaurant is very small. Each dish is prepared with loving care. This place is a winner.

Chez Miki is also a lovely but too tiny restaurant off rue St. Anne. The lunch menu includes two appetizers, a main course, a lovely clear soup, and dessert for just 15 euros. Choose from mackerel sushi (spectacular), marinated sardines, katsu pork, several different preparations of salmon (fried, grilled, salmon head grilled with salt), bass, etc. etc. And there are two desserts to choose from. The problem with this restauarant is that it is quite tiny and fills up quickly, but it is definitely a terrific place to go for Japanese-style home-cooked food.

On New Year's Day, I went to the queen of I places: the exclusive Benkay at the Hotel Nikko on the Seine. On other days, it is the best place for a beautiful bento, or teppanyaki, or sushi. Everything is authentic Japanese including the high prices. The osechi ryouri (what the Japanese eat on New Year's Day) was spectacular and included lobster, gambas and other beautifully prepared vegetables including the compulsory for New Year's mochi. See my pictures of some of the dishes. The meal was very expensive but I think that for once in my life, it was worth it to try the best of the best.

Yen, on rue St. Benoit in the 6th arrondissement, is a wonderful Japanese restaurant featuring spectacular soba--a whole grain thin noodle served in broth or cold on wooden criss-crossed boxes. They also have many other wonderful authentic Japanese dishes including grilled eggplant with miso and a variety of grilled fishes. At lunch the menus include cold soba or soba in broth with tempura or with other choices of vegetables. The contemporary and minimalist decor is lovely and adds to the calmness of the environment. You will find many Japanese tourists who seek out this restaurant when they come from Japan.

Many Japanese people don't realize that the canteen, Naniwaya turns into an izakaya in the evenings. I would call this a spectacular Japanese tapas place. Cheap and delicious, this is the place to sample the best of Japanese cuisine: takoyaki (octopus dumplings), grilled duck breast, fried tofu (agedashi dofu), inari (rice in sweet tofu skins), a variety of donburi (different fish and meat concoctions on rice), spicy vegetables, steamed pumpkin, etc. etc. Naniwaya serves a basic ramen and inari menu at lunch but once 6pm rolls around, the kitchen opens up its creativity. This restaurant is one of the first you meet when you walk into the rue St. Anne.

Before closing, I must mention Kunitoraya--the home of udon in Paris. It is superb. However, you must completely disregard the atmosphere which is nonexistent. In its place are the sounds of people greedily slurping their magnificent udon. There are many choices of preparations of both hot udon in broth or cold udon to be doused with or dipped in a cold sauce. The udon is made inhouse and it is beyond comparison. Only in Takamatsu (the capital of udon in Japan) did I have udon that compares.The restaurant is open non-stop from noon until 10pm, and it is always crowded. After seven, there is a menu of Japanese specialties like agedashi dofu or baked eggplant or maki with plum paste. You can have tempura on rice at lunch and several donburi dishes then as well. I would give this place an "A" for food.

Thailand

Two weeks in Thailand: restaurants in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Sukhothai and Krabi Beach

I had a fantastic two-week vacation in Thailand in February, 2009, and although I am allergic or just detest fresh cilantro, I left without a cilantro scar. My first hotel wrote out a little card for me about my affliction and it was fun to watch the reaction of both restaurant servers and street vendors. In restaurants, this was taken very seriously and my card was invariably brought into the kitchen so as to inform the chef.

I want to mention street food. Delicious!! You get scared about the hygiene and so it is important to choose, but if you find a place that looks good, don't hesitate. I had a wonderful spicy soup, papaya salad and grilled octopus on three different visits. I recommend it.

Although Bangkok is not a pretty city for wandering the streets, it is full of great shopping, luxury hotels, nice boat rides and fantastic restaurants. I loved the Siam Center's several shopping centers and spent a long time roaming the aisles of the fantastic food store at Siam Paragon. You can find EVERYTHING there from every country in the world. I was particularly impressed with the huge variety of Italian olive oils and dried pasta, not to speak of the rice selection. This is a must-see destination for a foodie.

My friend, Sylvain recommended one of the best restaurants in Bangkok: Baan Khanitha. There are several branches and I had a wonderful moderately priced meal at the one at 69 South Sathorn Road. My hotel made the reservation and I asked for the person who had taken the details. He was my waiter, and he was charming and knowledgeable. The food was wonderful: Yam Woon Sen to start (a spicy glass noodle salad with shrimp, squid and minced pork) and for my main course, Chu Chi Khung Nang--deep fried river prawns in red curry and coconut milk. I love spicy food and so I was very happy there. The restaurant was filled with Thai people and it doesn't feel like a tourist trap.

My favorite thing about Thailand is that you can stay in luxury hotels for the price of a basic hotel in London. I was at one of the best: The Shangri-La in Bangkok. I had fantastic service, a large beautiful room with a king size bed, and access to the Chi Spa which is one of the best in the city. I took one of their "voyages", and enjoyed a 2 1/2-hour experience of massage, bath, rub, and cream application to die for. I can't wait to go back. While you are there, you can use their faux-cashmere robes which are so soft and soothing after your shower.

My next stop was Sukhothai, which is the ancient capital of Thailand and full of beautiful ruins. I was at another luxury hotel called the Sukhothai Heritage Resort. As there is absolutely nothing in Sukhothai, this is where I dined. The food was very good and during the two days I stayed there, I sampled both lunch and dinner. The Larb Gai is a spicy chicken salad. Gaeng Ka Ree Gai is a yellow curry again with chicken and red and white rice. That was a winner. I tasted the sweet sausages which I loved, and also tried the Kao Hor Bar Bua which is old fashioned Thai fried rice with lotus flower, shrimp and chili sauce. On the second day, I had the spicy soup: Tom Kha Gai--curry chicken with galangal in coconut milk; and Pad Ka Praow Gai Goong, a dish of stir-fried shrimp with chili and basil leaf. In general, I ate very well in Sukhothai.

Next stop: Chiang Mai, known for shopping and the night market. I stayed in a little basic hotel which was located on the same street as the night market. A friend of mine told me that the Japanese restaurants in Thailand are very good, so for my first dinner, I went to Fuji. I had a spectacular assortment of sashimi and was very happy. Another winner in Chiang Mai is the famous Huen Phen. This place serves traditional northern Thai food. You can choose at the counter and they will serve you your choices at the table. I showed my cilantro card to the waitress and she and I proceeded to choose four delicious dishes for me. Don't miss Khao Soy--a spicy dish of noodles with the meat of your choice--usually chicken leg. You can't go wrong at this restaurant, as it is dirt cheap. I could not wait to go back.

The next day for lunch, I went to a place that was recommended in the Rough Guide: Just Khao Soy. You order your personally tailored dish of khao soy. You can choose the level of spiciness along with your meat: chicken, pork, tofu. I daringly chose spicy
(to the surprise of the waiter) and as it was definitely spicy I thought I was going to lose my lips in the fire. If you like spicy food, I recommend "medium". Once again, the bill was very inexpensive.

That evening, I dined at the Thai restaurant of my hotel: The Royal Princess. The restaurant's offerings were excellent. It is just a shame that there were not more people there to liven up the atmosphere. I had the traditional spicy shrimp soup Tom Yang Goong. Don't leave Thailand without trying their most famous soup. I also had the Pad Thai which is another traditional dish and wonderful. It is served with cilantro, but they wisely left it off mine.

For my last night, I wandered the night market and discovered the Kilari Night Bazaar. As I had reservations at a fancy restaurant, I told myself that I would come back there on another trip as the food looked extremely appetizing. There are many lovely restaurant stands and communal tables in the center of the market. This is an upscale section of the generally lower-class night market.

As recommended by the Rough Guide, I went to Ratchmakan Restaurant at the hotel of the same name--the fanciest restaurant in the city. It was nice to be in an upscale environment, but I was not impressed and would have preferred a meal in the Night Market. I would not recommend this place.

My next stop was the Krabi Beach--West Railay Bay Resort. I dined there most of the time and had wonderful seafood salads and fresh grilled fish. Some nights, I ventured next door for similar fare. One evening, I was part of a group on a snorkelling trip and we shared a wonderful seafood-chicken curry while watching the sunset on the beach. That was truly a high point of the trip.

My last evenings were in Bangkok and I went to one of the most famous restaurants in the city: the Blue Elephant. There is a branch in Paris. I was sorely disappointed by my meal and would have preferred to go back to Baan Khanitha or to try another place. I have been disappointed with Blue Elephant in Paris as well.

The next morning, I went to the food market right near my hotel. It was very interesting but teeming with people and parts of it seemed quite dirty. I took fantastic photos but they don't reflect the level of cleanliness. Personally, I would not feel comfortable buying food there.

For my last luncheon, I went to what is supposed to be the fanciest best hotel in Bangkok: The Oriental. The energy of that hotel turned me off (in comparison to the soft elegant atmosphere of the Shangri-La). But lunch was superb. I had the spectacular buffet: an array of continental dishes, sushi bar, seafood salads, pasta, meat preparations, fruit, beautiful French desserts, etc. Such a beautiful spread with a fancy cocktail came to about $50! And the room is beautiful with a river view. As this is a popular destination, it is important to reserve a few days in advance. What a wonderful close to a terrific trip. On the whole, I enjoyed Thailand for all the beautiful sites I visited and wonderful restaurants. And the people are friendly and honest. It is a very easy country for tourists.I can't wait to go back.

Dining in London

Power dining in London, including some of the greats: Gordon Ramsay, River Cafe,etc.

I was lucky enough to respond to an offer for a cheap trip to London (not including the meals). London is a quick 2 1/2 hours away from Paris by train and now that the pound has been devalued, it is a reasonable place to go to relax for a few days. The food in the fine restaurants is stellar. They say English food is terrible, and I am sure that is true, but you can spend your time on French, Italian, Indian, and East-Asian cuisine and be very happy.

On arriving, I made it to my reservation at Gordon Ramsay. It was so difficult to obtain one and I was thrilled that I could share the experience with a college friend, Peggy Czyzak. This restaurant has the coveted Michelin three stars and I think it deserves it. The service is lovely and refined, yet friendly, and the food is superb and understated. Peggy and I both started with sauteed foie gras de canard with my favorite sweet breads. And we continued with a turbot served with a variety of wild mushrooms. Simply delectable. We ordered a great white Burgundy: Chassagne Montrachet of Jean Noel Gagnard 2006. When at Ramsay's no need to be frugal! For dessert we were very inventive and opted for the eggplant for two. This was sweet, creamy, and wonderful. Along with that came a lavish array chocolates and petits fours.

Among other things Peggy and I discussed at lunch was the next restaurant I should go to: Tom Aikens. His name sounds British but the restaurant in truly French with French waiters. I started with a superb lobster confit with rabbit filet roasted in a vanilla butter and served with pumpkin gnocchi. What a mouthful to say and even conceive of. It sounds strange but I loved it. My main course was pigeon with a foie gras mousse and pumpkin risotto. I guess this chef likes his pumpkin. I didn't bother to order dessert as Peggy warned me that the coffee and petits fours choices would be enough for me--including five different flavors of just-baked madeleines. There was enough chocolate among the petits fours and madeleines to keep me happy. Were there not so many other wonderful restaurants in London, I would return again and again to both Ramsay and Aiken.

I LOVE THE RIVER CAFE. But that is because I love trattoria food. I'll go back to that place. The menu has so many delicious offerings that I would not get bored if I went once a week for a year. And dining there doesn't break the bank. They do change the menu daily and there are wonderful pasta dishes, fish dishes and meat dishes. Desserts are excellent--especially the fruit torta, the panna cotta and the Chocolate Nemesis. On the evening I went, I had the roasted calamari to start with--a large salad with huge grilled squid bodies and heads, and pasta stuffed with rabbit and pancetta. The pasta was wonderful--everything was wonderful. I could not decide on a dessert until I promised myself that I could go back there within 6 months. So I chose the rich Chocolate Nemesis. That is a chocolate lover's heaven.

Everyone talks about the Ivy. In LA, the Ivy is the place to see and be seen and that is true of the one in London. I went there after theater and although I didn't have a reservation, I was treated very well and given a table at the bar. The food is nothing spectacular. One goes for the experience. Apparently Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes had been there the night before. In terms of the meal, I had a fresh Dungeness crab salad that was very good. After that I had the treacle tart à la Oliver Twist. I was told that treacle is only in season for a very short time and I felt lucky. It was quite sweet and served with clotted cream which cut the sweetness.

After this gastronomic weekend, I shudder to think of what the scale will say about those extra kilos I must have gained. I think I will join a health club, because I certainly can't give up eating!!

Restaurants in Paris

Some of my favorite, moderately-priced restaurants in Paris--off the beaten track

Last year, I followed the gastronomic advice of my dentist and went to L'Ordonnance on rue Halle in the 14th. What a find!! After 11 months, this restaurant is in the Guide Michelin, which is quite an honor. Classic French bistrot food, lovely service and absolutely delicious meals are served up here from Monday through Saturday. The veal chop is sensational; the wine list stellar, the prices are right, and the desserts are terrific. For me, who live at the Place de la Bastille, the hike to the 14th is well worth it. The bill for two with a terrific wine came to 100 euros.

I love the Comptoir du Relais at the Place de l'Odeon and so does everyone else. At lunch until about 6 pm, they serve brasserie/bistrot food and it is always crowded. I went at noon and had to wait until 1pm (you are permitted to go on a short excursion and they will remember that you were there at the right time). Meat is a big item but the thon juste saisi is fantastic. I love the desserts. Count on a hearty meal. You can have a lobster salad, a salmon croque monsieur or even tuna fish "my way". Beef cheeks, pigs feet and charcuterie are excellent. The chef is a celebrity as he was the first young chef to go off on his own and serve affordable French fine food. At night there is one menu for a five-course dinner but you must reserve many many months in advance as they reserve tables for the patrons of the hotel next door. Still, I often see that walk-ins luck out, as the restaurant staff never knows how many of the hotel residents with be at their tables. Prices range from high for the lobster dishes to much lower for salads and country meat specials.

Mon Vieil Ami on L'Ile St. Louis has always received excellent reviews, but I was not impressed. I went on an un-busy night and given one of the worst tables although I asked to be seated elsewhere. Too full, they said, but I sat in the restaurant with just two other tables filled. The restaurant revels in its treatment of vegetables and they receive top billing. I thought that the meal was mediocre and will not return. The chef who consults to the restaurant is the great Antoine Westermann of Strasbourg, who recently retired. Perhaps that was what I tasted in the lackluster preparations.

Last year, La Cave Gourmande in the 19th gained praises from the Guide Michelin. So I took the pilgrimage out there with two friends visiting from Massachusetts. Although I would say that the food was not bad, I don't think it was worth the trek. Mme et M Singer were less than cordial and this surprised me. However, my appetizer was terrific: a dish with stuffed seafood that was light and savory. And I also had the dorade with fresh seasonal greens. Desserts were classic (as I like them) and very good. I think I left with less than a good impression mostly due to the lack of welcome and warmth in the service.

I love the Clos des Gourmets on avenue Rapp in the 7th. This also received the same Bib Gourmand from the Guide Michelin as did La Cave Gourmande, but it definitely deserves its accolade. The set menu is quite reasonable in price but there are several choices that cost more than the basic menu. The roast chicken is fantastic and all the fish preparations are wonderful. I can't resist the turbot with girolles which comes with a supplement in price. Appetizers are especially inventive--like the cold white beans or the mussels in a cauliflower gelée, served in a glass like a mousse. This is a definite "must return" restaurant.

Another great place is Le Cameleon. It was a tired bistrot in the 6th arrondissement until Jean-Paul Arabian took it over. His specialty is renovating old restaurants and making them his own and he really succeeded here. He hired a wonderful chef and had the entire restaurant redesigned to reflect today's style--minimalist and colorful at the same time. The food is terrific and affordable. The atmosphere very fun. I had a lobster salad to start and ris de veau meunière as my main course. Perhaps they are not for the faint at heart, but I do like offal. They were perfectly prepared. My companion had a wonderful fish dish. This place is a bit more pricey--reflecting the neighborhood and the fact that it is very "in". However, I can't wait to go back. Everything on the menu appeals to me and all the people I have taken here leave happy and satisfied.

For my last entry in this post, I will talk about Cafe Breizh. This place is perhaps the best crêperie in France--for sure in Paris. Oddly enough, the chefs are all Japanese. That is not surprising as the Japanese are known for their talents in the kitchen. The restaurant (on rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais) is always crowded. There are special complex crêpes, wonderful oysters, and the basic offerings that you would find in any crêperie.All the cheese used is fermier, and all the products are absolutely fresh. The cider list is long with wonderful offerings. Add to that the wonderful welcome, and you have a terrific place for lunch or dinner.