Delicious pizza and other wonderful things to eat in Italy

I spent two weeks in Northern and Central Italy including Milano, Bellagio in the Lake Como area, Bologna and Rome. I will talk about some superb three-star restaurants that I was lucky enough to try. In the other towns, I had my fill of spectacular food in one star restaurants (Rome) and some excellent trattorias in Bologna. This review will concentrate on some casual and delicious, but serious food.

To start with, I had to go to Florida for pizza al taglio. My friend, Maureen, the brilliant food writer told me about it and I expected to have to traipse somewhere to find it in that large city. I was so fortunate to find that it was exactly a five-minute walk from my hotel and near to the Piazza Fiori di Campo. This meant that I could go there more than once, and it was so good that frankly, I felt cheated on the days when I couldn't make it there for lunch!!

Pizza can be dreadful in Rome with the cracker-like crust and fake tomato sauce that is prevalent. But pizza that is well made is very serious business. A simple viewing of the variety of the pizzas served is but a poor substitue for the delight one has when biting into the chewy, crunchy crust and superb toppings.

It is hard to spend more than 5 euros per person with drinks and I had to stop myself from going behind the counter and hugging the servers. I ate in on a stool and high round table, but most people take out. Florida is open all day but closed on Sunday. I will definitely choose the same hotel next time so that I can get there easily and as often as possible!

In Bologna, I was very happy with two trattorias that I discovered. I went to the first both for lunch and dinner. It is a famous little place called Drogheria della Rosa. Although the owner is not very attractive, he loves the ladies and usually discounts their meals! I learned this the easy way, by drumming up a conversation the first time I went. The next time, he sat with me at the end of my dinner and was horrified when he saw that I had paid the full amount. He said I was his guest, but of course, he couldn't be crass and give me my money back. Anyway, next time I will be slow on the uptake and take some time before I make a gesture to pay.

The restaurant's pride is its Tagliatelle Classiche with perfectly executed Bolognese sauce.

It is wonderful. This is what I had both at lunch and the second time I went, at dinner.

At dinner I followed the pasta dish with a superb grilled beef with rosemary, roasted potatoes, little green chiles (sometimes one can be hot) and baked tomatoes.

They are always handing out things to taste and this time the waitress went around with a large basket of new purple plums. This was followed by an excellent Torta al cioccolato, crema inglese.

It is a cute restaurant.

Bologna is a very serious eating town and I know I'll be back. I went to two other trattorias:

Diana, where I had an excellent example of lasagne verde,

and Antica Trattoria della Gigina. This is a great place. Before ordering, an assortment of antipasti including mortadella, fried vegetables, egg and potato frittata, and little puffs of cheese were placed before me. I then started with another classic of Emilia Romagna: Tortellini in Brodo

the perfect meat tortellini in a flavorful broth. On two separate visits I tried a rich appetizer of Gnocchi con Spinaci in Fonduta di Parmigiano e Tartuffo di Estate,

a dish of roasted Faraona (guinea hen) that had been boned and roasted, and roasted rabbit. The restaurant is a real find in that it is tradtional, inexpensive and excellent. It has a Michelin indication for impressive restaurants at low prices, the "Bib Gourmand". In France, those indications are most reliable but not in Italy (according to Maureen). Nevertheless, in Bologna, it is very hard to go wrong since the inhabitants and chefs are so proud of their foods and tradition.

ITALY!!!! Three star restaurants

I can't talk about my trip to Italy without talking about my trip to Osteria Francescana, recently named #3 on the San Pellegrino Best Restaurants of the World list (an important accolade but what does that really mean, and what or who is San Pellegrino if not sparkling water?). The restaurant also has three stars and that indicates fine dining that is well worth the trip. So off I hoped to go!

It is not easy to get a reservation for one of the 12 tables in the osteria, which is located in Modena. Such a feat requires persistence and exact timing, and I am very good at both. So off I went one morning by train from Bologna (an excellent and serious food city). I was excited.

Everything was a big surprise on the multi-course menu.

These dishes were, from top to bottom: a delicious pigeon dish with beets; a dessert called "a thousand layers of leaves" with sugar-coated greens, chocolate, strawberries, eggplant, pumpkin; and finally, "OOPS!! I dropped the lemon tart" which was, well, a spectacular spectacular lemon tart.

The menu, called il menu sensazioni, was a journey throughout the different regions of Italy. One of the starters was "think green":

a purée of fresh peas, broccoli, herbs and flowers and a parmesan cream.

There was also a risotto "where the river meets the sea" which was a delicious seafood rice dabbed with chlorophyll.

I enjoyed the wine pairings--approximately five different kinds of wine for the 12-course luncheon.

Osteria Francescana is a very pleasant and beautiful restaurant--not at all fancy--where the effort is aimed at pleasing the guest and creating a serene atmosphere in which to enjoy the dishes, which are works of art. The chef came to my table twice to commiserate about the sad state of affairs in Italy (post-Berlusconi) and to say that he and his friends wished to give something good back to the country. I believe he is doing a wonderful job.

Two days later, I was back on the train to go to Canneto sull-Olio. It is quite a trek from Bologna, requiring changing trains in Parma to end up in Piadena (which even the ticket saleswoman had never heard of) and from there, a private taxi to the restaurant: dal Pescatore.

The Santini family has been running this lovely classic restaurant for years. Everyone in the family takes part with the mother and her son in the kitchen, and the husband as director. The sommelier is another son and his wife is in charge of the diningroom. The menu has a photo of the whole family signed by each family member.

This is a seafood restaurant and is outstanding from start to finish. I chose the tasting menu and started with a wonderful lobster terrine with oscietra caviar,

followed by guinea-hen ravioli with porcini mushrooms in an eggplant and black summer truffle sauce.

Next followed potato gnocchi with a tender white fish (galinella) garnished with teeny cherry tomatoes.

The first of the main courses was ombrina, a flavorful thick filet of fish served with seasonal greens and flavorful Tuscan olive oil.

But I fell in love with the duck breast served with some velvety mashed potatoes and served with Mostarda, preserved fruits subtley flavored with sharp mustard. This was an astute combination.

Mostarda also came with the Gorgonzola and resulted in a beautiful pairing.

Look at dessert:

which was two "penguins" filled with a delicious fruit-thyme mousse in dark chocolate cups. Ice cream after a big meal, always feels like a light touch.

I left the wine choice to the sommelier and he did a beautiful job, presenting me with a variety of wines from Friuli and Tuscany.

dal Pescatore is a country restaurant in a small, remote town. Again, it has three Michelin stars and is definitely worth the trip. The lovely diningroom looks out on a verdant garden and inside, the diners bathe in the warmth of the family that loves its fine art.

Back in Paris: Abri, La Dame de Pic

My friend, Gaby, was planning to go out of town when she learned that her house sitter would not be coming. She contacted me in Provincetown and I offered to take over and care for her precious cat, Nera, since I would be back in Paris before Gaby left. Gaby usually likes to have someone live in the apartment while she is away and as I live downstairs, we decided that I would spend time daily with Nera and that would be fine for the two weeks of her absence.

Apparently, I did a good job and, and to thank me, Gaby invited me to a wonderful lunch at a tiny new restaurant called Abri. I'll start out by saying that I was extremely impressed and to my dismay, found that getting a dinner reservation there requires quite a lot of planning as it is a tiny pearl of a restaurant with about 9 tables.

The staff and chefs at Abri are Japanese and the food is French fusion. The menu is a surprise and there is no choice (although you do choose your main course). Before you are served they ask if you do not eat a particular food. With me it is always cilantro.

Different people in the restaurant are served different dishes. We started with a dish of squid rings, artichoke purée, and morel mushrooms which I love and which were in season. Next came gnocchi maison (home made) with a purée of white asparagus, grilled parmesan, and onion flowers.

We each chose a different main course so that we could taste each other's. There was lieu jaune (a delicate white fish) with a coconut milk emulsion, citronella and spring vegetables

and a juicy piece of roast lamb with broccoli rabe flowers and delicious rich potato purée.

We saw that they were serving both a dark chocolate and an apple dessert and requested one of each. They told us that that was not possible. I found that to be an annoying and senseless policy.

So we both got the apple dessert which I had requested. They called it a millefeuille de pomme à la glace vanille.

It was a wonderful end to a superb meal. Dinner is inexpensive and quite copious. I can't wait to go with a different special friend.

For my birthday, I always invite someone or some people to a great restaurant. I chose La Dame de Pic this time. Sophie Pic, the daughter of Jacques, fabled chef, was the first woman to get three stars for her Restaurant Pic in Valence. She continues to create her food there and also to run a cooking school. This year, she opened a nice place in central Paris and within months, was awarded one star.

The restaurant is quite large with different alcoves so you don't feel that you are part of a mass of people. They have a strange process of handing out perfumed papers and asking you which you like the best. One of the three aromas goes with one of the three menus suggested. Usually the aroma you choose as your favorite is also the menu you prefer. It almost worked that way for us, but I wanted to switch my first course and that was fine. Each of the three menus proposed is a five course dinner.

As our amuse-bouche, we had a lovely gaspacho de melon, mousse de chèvre frais, cafe Blue Mountain.

The name of my preferred menu was Agrumes Aromatiques (aromatic citrus fruits), and Gaby's was Terre Epicée (spiced land or soil). I chose my first course from Gaby's menu.

We started with Le Petit Pois which was served in a cold soup flavored with vanilla and bergamote (a citrus flavor).

I love fresh peas in season and this lovely cold soup was a marvel.

Next Gaby got the beautiful Oeuf Mollet (lightly baked egg) with tomatoes tricolors, chutney de tomate, café Blue Mountain, safran. Blue Mountain coffee seems to be a favorite condiment here.

I had the Rouget de Mediterranée, baies rose, citro kabosu (some type of lemon).

For our main courses: Gaby had the Pièce de Veau, lard de colonnata, safran, pissaladière avec une purée aromatisee . The veal is served with a bit of Italian ham, as well as a provençale tart of parsley and garlic.

I had La canette de la ferme de ciels, suprême fumé, navets, combava (an exotic vegetable).

We both loved our dishes and tasted each other's.

Desserts were Baba au Rhum (Gaby) (three tiny babas in a strawberry sauce) and Le Citron de Menton (a lovely lemon tart with Menton lemon). They were both delicious.

After dessert came the requisite mignardises of delicious tiny chocolate cakes and lemon tartelettes.

I really loved the food and enjoyed the service and the decor. I was puzzled by the introduction of the perfumed samples though. To me, it was a pretentious gimmick in the name of originality.

Searching for the Best Lobster Roll in Massachusetts and in Manhattan too

B and G Oyster, Boston, The Squealing Pig, Provincetown, and the Lobeter Place, Chelsea Market Manhattan

On a pouring Friday afternoon, I went off to B and G Oyster, Barbara Lynch's latest restaurant in Bay Village. Lobster is expensive now but this place is over the roof. I sat at the bar, had a nice glass of crisp white wine and actually had an appetizer of lovely fiddlehead ferns.

Since I was in an oyster house, I had to order oysters. They were extrememly fresh and flavorful: 2 Wellfleet Oysters (delicate and flavorful), 2 Naked Cowboys (meatier)

And the pièce de résistance and reason for my presence there: The Lobster Roll.

This was the most expensive lobster roll except for the one in Paris that I reported about last year (and a lot of that has to do with the exchange rate). The roll was not adequately toasted and buttered and it needed a bit more mayonnaise. The lobster, of course, was excellent. The fries too. I gave it a "B" for the weaknesses I cited.

The next day, in Provincetown, I went with a group to The Squealing Pig. This place looked like a plain diner and I was concerned about ordering anything there. The Bloody Mary's were the best and strongest I ever had, so already I felt I had started on the right foot. This wonderful lobster roll on a toasted and adequately buttered roll was deserving of an A-.

The best lobster roll I ever had was in the early '80's in a shack on Nahant's beach. At that time, we thought they were expensive at $8!

Several months later, I found myself in NYC and went to Chelsea Market where I remembered a lobster stand. The place is now a full-fledged stunning seafood shop and adjoining restaurant. You get the lobster roll at a take out counter and then search for a seat in the market. We were there for a late lunch so there were no seats but we sat on a high baseboard until a table cleared. This lobster roll was superb and as I remembered it. I give it a B+.

Since I am in NY quite a bit these days, I will make a point of coming to this place (at least until my next trip to Provincetown).

Around Boston: Sycamore, Blue Ginger, The Painted Burro

Sycamore is a brand new restaurant in Newton Centre recently opened by a young chef with a glowing reputation: David Punch. I met him when he ran Ten Tables in Cambridge. Even with reservations, we had a long wait but the food was sublime so we forgot our initial discomfort. I went there with Sophie, Mason and Diane and as a result, we were able to taste most of the spectacular menu.

Even a simple salad was garnished with goat cheese, hazelnuts, dried pears and champagne vinaigrette. But there was also a dish of asparagus, laughing bird shrimp (what is that?--probably a pretentious name for small shrimp), 5-minute egg, honshimeji (a Japanese type of) mushrooms, and nori (the seaweed which appears around makizushi).

For the main courses, we tried Pan Roasted Arctic Char with celery root, green peppercorns, and pea greens as well as Rabbit Two Ways: one way was bacon-wrapped and the other braised, garnished with nettle gnocchi and maitakes (another type of Japanese mushroom).

For the health fad nuts, we ordered some sides of vegetables: the obligatory kale sautée, and cauliflower roasted with raisins and pine nuts.

Dessert was thorough wonderment. There was a chocolat pot de crème, chantilly with caramelized banana and peanut brittle. I skipped the side section and went straight for the pot de crème. I gave in when I tasted that peanut brittle! We also tried and loved the warm-sugared beignets served with house-made milk jam. The beignets were excellent.

Sophie is a bit of a wine expert, having learned the art from her father, my good friend, Richard. She chose a nice wine for us, but of course, I was sorry it was a French one, since I come from France where French wines are what we have all the time. But it was very good and married well with the main courses: Baronfosse "les Blemnites" Côtes du Jura, 2007.

Blue Ginger in Wellesley was next on the itinerary. I wish it had been there when I went to that college. It was recommended to me by my old, dear friend, Carol, and we went there with her husband, Ed and with very old friends of mine, Susan and Eric.

This was the perfect place as I love Asian Fusion Cuisine. The chef, Ming Tasi, is well known from his food channel TV show: East Meets West. We shared several appetizers and chose our own main course.

The signature Foie Gras Shiitake Shumai in Sauternes Shallot Broth were gobbled up before I had a chance to take a photo! They were delicious. We also shared Crispy Fried Calamari with Thai Dipping Sauce--another winner.

For the mains, there was Sake-Miso Marinated Sablefish with a Vegetarian Soba Noodle Sushi;

Pan-Seared Scallops with Tamarind Sauce, Creamy Thai Barley Risotto and Sautéed Haricots Verts, Seared Duck Breast with Sweet Wasabi Sauce, Applewood Smoked Duck Leg, Wild Fried Rice and Shiso-Bartlett Pear Purée; And Korean-Marinated New Zealand Lamb Rack with Asian Mole, Yuca-Potato Cake and Chayote-Kale-Asian Pear sauté.

I was very happy with our Sauvignon Blanc from the Napa Valley.

A stunning chocolate cake was a fit end to a memorable meal.

The Painted Burro



This might be the best Mexican in already Mexican-crowded Davis Square, Somerville. It is certainly the newest and the noisiest with the longest list of Tequilas. I went there with Mark and Jesse. Mark and I shared Street Cart Chicken: a 1/2 roaster with achioto-citrus marinade, more of that kale (the latest of the ubiquitous vegetables), fried plantain, creamy poblano rice and tamarind butter. It was both beautiful and tasty. Jesse had already eaten so he "just" ordered Fundido: Oaxaca, Chihuahua and Jack cheeses served with corn tortillas and with black bean "refrito"--very rich indeed.



I was not a big fan of the churros with caramel-chocolate sauce but Jesse and Mark gobbled them up.

Another Trip to NYC

I was in New York again (lucky me) and the first place I want to write about is Forcella. It is the home of the famous Montanaro. That is a deep fried pizza (can you believe it?).

Surprisingly, it is not greasy and the crust is the right amount of crisp and chewy. The restaurant also serves the regular type pizza, but I think you go there for the Montanaro. It's in the Bowery which is a newly gentrified area that has a museum with interesting architecture and a number of fancy shops and boutiques.

Later in the week, I met my friend, Stacy, on the Lower East Side and we tried APizz--a Sicilian slang word for pizza. It gets a great write-up in Zagat and is really off the beaten tracks. We didn't get pizza this time, as the Branzino sounded wonderful: Branzino Wood Roasted, Deboned and Served Whole, Roasted with Rosemary, Thyme, and Lemon and served with a delicious Arugala-Tomato Salad.

The Little Owl is a small restaurant in the West Village with a big reputation. I went there with Pat and Tim with whom I have dined every time I am in NY for the past 40 or so years. I had never heard of the restaurant but was eager to try it. Unfortunately, it was dark and so I could not take very good photos. Two wonderful dishes were the Basil Lobster with a String Bean Salad,Curry Vinaigrette, and a Broiled Salmon with English Peas, Corn, Pesto Vinaigrette.

If you are looking to spend a fortune on great sushi, Gari is your place! The sushi served there are very creative in that there are inventive toppings on each of the fish served. The first time I went there, I took the Omakase (chef's choice) and had no idea how high the prices could go. But the sushi are terrific. This time, I chose an abbreviated menu and it was a lot less expensive but still painful for my pocketbook. Here are some examples of the beautiful creations:

The sushi are served with a cream or a spicy mixture on top. Of course, the sea urchin stand alone.

All the sushis are just wonderful and Gari is the only place you will find this.

Tune in tomorrow for a summary of my search for Lobster Rolls in Boston and other pursuits.

Kei: Fusion Cuisine in Paris

In a sobering minimalist decor, redo of a former classic French restaurant, is the new Kei. I went there with my friend, Noriko after we had tried Sola.

Once again, Japanese-French fusion food could transport me to great heights.

At lunch there are two menus, one more expensive and more substantial than the other. I chose the "big" menu. The menu started off with a bang: Crème Glacée de Truffe Noir, Potiron, Shizo. Shizo leaf is an aromatic herb that finds itself in many Japanese dishes.




The ice cream topped with a generous portion of black truffles was just luscious and I felt ready to start a great meal. Next was Asparagus Tempura with Peas. It came with three flavored salts: green tea, yuzu, cresson-agrumes.

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Next came soup: Velouté d'Asperges Blanches, Caviar, Gelée de Consommé de Legumes servie froide was a sensation. The chef was taking advantage of the seasonal vegetables and I love anything topped with a good caviar.

The lunch menu continued with a lion's share of luxury products: Foie gras de Canard, Gelée de Pomme Verte, Bière Brune condiment, Crumble de vanille et d'amandes. This was extremely flavorful and astonishingly creative.




The first main course was great: St Pierre, Velouté de Truffes, Petits Legumes, avec une Compotée de Pomme de Terre et Oignons, Couche de truffes noires; the second main course, wonderful: Quasi de Veau, jus, Croquettes de fromage sur un Lit de Mousse de Cresson, Feuille de Moutarde.



There was a cheese course, which I could not eat and finally a Vacherin: Meringue au Yuzu, Sorbet à l'Orange Amer et Yuzu, Creme Vanillée, Kumquat confit.

With each course, I had superb wines including a Chassagne Montrachet Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Rouge 2010 and a Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles Vignes Domaine de la Chapelle 2009.

The difference between the menus was that I had three extra dishes and they were a bargain at 75 euros. This is a truly wonderful restaurant.