Tuesday 23 June 2009

Six Days in London






A variety of restaurants in a gastronomic capital including a power dining locale, an ubiquitous London chain for Asian food, a fusion place that has a branch in New York, a Gordon Ramsay creation and one of my favorite Italian restaurants: The River Cafe


I spent six delicious and glorious days in London at the end of May. The weather was so good that people were saying it was scary!! No rain for all that time--just warm, clear, sunny days. Coincidentally, my friend Mary (a die-hard foodie) was there at the same time so we went to many restaurants together.

Recommended by my friend, the food critic, Maureen, I went to Pearl the first evening. The restaurant food style is nouveau French with a Japanese chef. First of all, the amuse-bouches were indeed very amusing and flavorful. There were many of them, but I remember the watermelon gazpacho with pine nuts and goat cheese, and a delicious Roscoff potato filled with braised veal. There was also a bit of mushroom risotto with cèpes (porcini in Italian).

I started my meal with a beautiful and delicious rabbit dish. The rabbit was made into a lasagna layered with langoustines and garnished with fresh peas and morels. A sheer delight. For my main course, I chose a roast halibut with chorizo, caramelized squid, chic peas and squid ink. Very inventive, original and very delicious.

For the pre-dessert, I was served a terrific crumble with English strawberries and vanilla foam. And I chose a hazelnut chocolate parfait with a sponge cake. The meal was quite copious and not cheap but I think that it was worth it for the level of pleasure and creativity.

The next day, I went to the most popular restaurant in London: Wagamama. It is a big chain with a restaurant or two in every neighborhood. I would call it a Pan-Asian cafeteria-type place although you are served at table. All of the Wagamamas are in big spaces with blond butcher block communal tables. The atmosphere is youthful. The service is quick and the food is very hardy and delicious. You can get several Japanese soups as well as Japanese gyoza; Thai-spiced combination dishes (no cilantro for me, thank you); and a variety of interesting Asian style salads. It is not very expensive and is a perfect place for a fun lunch.

That evening, Mary and I met at Asia de Cuba. The food is very good. The atmosphere is noisy and the service is quite nice. I started with calamari salad with hearts of palm, banana, cashews, and a sesame-orange dressing. To die for were the Asian pesto grilled prawns served with lotus root chips and wok-charred tropical fruit: an excellent combination of sweet and savory, succulent and crunchy. For my main course, I had a wonderful coconut-mustard Chilean sea bass with crab-corn flan and chimichurri greens served with a jalapeno-plum coulis. Sensational! The drinks are also very good at this restaurant and so we ordered those rather than choosing wine.

Maze is Mary's absolute favorite place. It is a Gordon Ramsay restaurant run by Jason Atherton. Basically, you are served a variety of dishes in tapas portions. I think that three or four tapas and one dessert is a good amount to order. And with each dish, the French sommelier, Laure, can choose something appropriate for you. I started with a lovely chilled I that had pieces of lobster. The BLT is terrific: served in a martini glass. No bread. Tomato I, pieces of bacon, lettuce I and onion rings. It is very amusing and very delicious. I also had a wonderful cèpe risotto that had a quail egg hidden in its center. The slow-cooked quail, braised leg and wood sorrel was also an excellent choice.

You can't leave London without having lemon curd and that is what I chose for dessert: a sort of baked Alaska with lemon meringue, citrus curd, lemon sorbet and basil sorbet. Very refreshing and flavorful.

I have already written about the River Cafe. I go there every time I am in London. This time, the weather was so warm that I chose to dine outside. The tables were set up on the lawn next to the Thames. I had a very unique meal: taglierini con ortichi(nettles) which were fine green noodles with the spicy green nettles, sage, and butter: excellent! And for my main course was piccione al forno stuffed with romarino. It was in a Chianti-pancetta sauce and was served with vignole which is a seasonal dish of vegetables (artichokes, broad beans, peas). My friend, Maureen served this to me in Rome several years ago. It is very rare to find it on a menu as the season is so short. This dish gets an A+.

I had an apricot crostata for dessert as I had had the signature chocolate nemesis the last time. This was a lovely warm pastry served warm and filled with fresh apricots and garnished with double cream.

Before leaving for the train station, I met Mary at the restaurant of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. We dined on the terrace and had a lovely lunch of crab cake served with a lobster claw and fresh provençale vegetables; and shortcake with strawberries, sorbet and whipped cream. Mary ordered a beautiful and luscious panna cotta with raspberries and raspberry coulis. Our waiter was from Chicago so it was fun to converse with someone who did not have a British accent. I left London with a happy stomach and many fond memories.

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